NV Lambert de Seyssel Petit Royal Blanc de Blancs Brut France 750 ml

One sip of the little known Lambert de Seyssel Petit Royal had our own Master of Wine and Head of Wine, Vanessa Conlin, busting out her old flash cards after being shocked by its spine-tingling vibrancy, delicate mouse, and pronounced bouquet of preserved lemon, dried yellow flowers, potters clay, and fresh marjoram. 

“If I had to compare this to anything it would be a sparkling Vouvray or Gran Reserva Cava,” said Vanessa, “but the rare grapes it’s made of—Molette and Altesse—give it a character that’s completely unique. It’s so delicious.” 

And limited. Even for Savoie—the small, stunningly beautiful, and secluded region at the foot of the French Alps—this blend is unusual. After regaining her senses, Vanessa locked in every bottle possible for Wine Access members. As she put it, “When a new discovery is as good it is surprising, that’s when you go all in.” We’re incredibly excited to offer it for just $22. 

Though its brilliance is kept largely under the radar, the little village of Seyssel in the heart of Savoie has a history of winemaking that dates back to the 11th century. Lambert de Seyssel traces its own history back over 100 years as one of greatest producers of traditionally made sparkling wines in the region. 

Today, proprietors Oliver Verichon (great-grandson of the founder) and Gerard and Catherine Lambert, farm the entire estate biodynamically. Rows of Molette and Altesse planted in clay and limestone soils are interspersed with vegetation, promoting biodiversity and vine health—in the glass, Alpine flower shines through clear as day. 

Made in the traditional Champagne method and aged for two years prior to release, the Petit Royal offers yeasty complexity buoyed by tangy lemon and green apple acidity. The mouthfeel is wonderfully broad, and the bead is incredibly fine. A Champagne of this pedigree would easily cost two even three times the price. 

It was this past January, at a wine dinner in San Francisco, when Vanessa first experienced the magic of the Lambert de Seyssel Petit Royal. In a lineup of sparkling wines ranging from grower Champagnes to Cremant de Loire to Cava, “it wasn’t even a question,” as Vanessa put it, as to which bottle sparked the most excitement from the heralded group. We’ve been trying to secure an allocation since then—hardly an easy task given how few bottles of sparkling wine make it stateside from Savoie—but we finally did it. The intrigue and elation are here, for just $22.