NV Joseph Perrier Cuvee Royale Brut Champagne 750 ml

No, we’re not talking about Elizabeth. 200-year-old Joseph Perrier was the favorite Champagne house of English royalty before her highness was even born. The Cuvée Royale dazzled the palates of Queen Victoria and King Edward VII, and it lifted us out of our seats with an energy matched only by its finely beaded elegance. 

We didn’t expect an under-$40 Champagne to drink like $80, but if any was going to do it, it was going to be the “venerable” Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale—on the list at NYC’s famed La Grenouille for a cool $130. We discovered it, or better yet, it announced itself to us, amongst a sea of sparklers at a marathon Champagne tasting. 

We were nearing the end of a three-hour tour of almost 100 bottles, searching for a crowd-pleasing sparkler. Our palates were getting tired, and we were sure we had seen the best of the lot—until the Cuvée Royale came cascading into our glasses. Before swirling or smelling, we noticed its delicate mousse finer than any we had seen that day, even from more expensive bottlings. 

The nose was wonderfully fresh and ethereal, offering, as Wine Advocate wrote, a “generous bouquet of ripe apples, mandarin, warm biscuits and subtle hints of honeycomb.” 

Given the well-rounded assemblage—almost equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier—we were amazed at the crispness and lightness on the palate. At the same time, there was an added intensity and complexity (especially due to the Pinot Noir) that reminded us of Premier Cru Champagne. James Suckling echoed as much, admiring “plenty of zesty acidity on the palate,” then adding, “The drive and richness here are impressive.”

Balance has always been a staple of Joseph Perrier Champagne. Founded in 1825 by a young native of Châlons-en-Champagne, the sixth-generation house has been family-owned since its inception, never straying from its artisanal philosophy. 

The hand-picked vineyard covers 50 acres on the right bank of the Marne river, spread between the villages of Cumières and Hautvillers—prized Champagne terroir. Winemaker Nathalie Laplaige is demanding in her selection and it shows in the wine. The grapes that make it into the press from her sorting table are nothing short of perfect, and after three years of aging, the Cuvée Royale flaunts the depth and polish of a Champagne twice the price.

Even after tasting through almost 100 bottles, we couldn’t help but rise to our feet along with the tiny gold-flecked bubbles of the Cuvée Royale. We had found what we’d been seeking. If you're looking for an overachieving Champagne, your quest is over as well.