Podere il Palazzino Chianti Classico Grosso Senese Collection

94pt Il Palazzino Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese Collection:
“One of the great, undiscovered wines in Tuscany”

In the 19th century, the Sderci family purchased a 20-hectare farm outside of Monti in Chianti. Nearly a century later, Alessandro and Andrea Sderci took control of Poderi Palazzino, determined to reshape the vineyard property at a time when Chianti Classico was all but worthless on the world market.

In the early 1990s, many of the top estates of Chianti Classico rode the Super Tuscan wave, hoping to coast in the Antinori family’s wake. The Sdercis followed suit, planting broad-shouldered Cabernet Sauvignon to bolster the floral elegance of Sangiovese. But, as the brothers observed, Tuscan growing seasons aren’t always well-suited to the late-maturing Bordeaux variety. When their Cabernet Sauvignon wasn’t harvested at optimal ripeness, tannins were green and astringent, and these Super Tuscans weren’t so “Super” after all.

Over the course of the last two decades, as their neighbors continued to cultivate Cabernet Sauvignon, Andrea and Alessandro grafted their Cabernet vines back to Sangiovese, a decision that seemed to fly in the face of fiscal prudence. But as the years passed, and the critics — led by the world’s most revered Italian wine expert, Antonio Galloni — discovered the Burgundian richness and floral elegance of Il Palazzino Grosso Sanese, few questioned the family’s direction any more.

The 2009 and 2010 Podere Il Palazzino Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese are what world-class Chianti is all about — but rarely is. Far more akin to Premier Cru red Burgundy than anything Tuscan not made by Isole e Olena, Fontodi, or Felsina, we decanted both bottles 45 minutes before serving. Only then did the fireworks really begin.

The 2009 Il Palazzino is brilliant ruby to the rim. Piercing aromas of raspberry, black cherry, and kirsch sprinkled with Asian spices. Deep and darkly concentrated yet perfectly poised, the attack features a lively mix of crushed red fruits and cherry. Two and a half hours after we popped the cork, the 2009 Grosso Sanese added weight, density, and mineral complexity, finishing with terrific vibrancy and lift, arguing for a long stay in a cool cellar.

The 2010 is deeper, darker and more complex. Wildly complex aromatically featuring a sumptuous mix of crushed red fruits, graphite, and licorice. Rich, powerfully built with great tension and structure, infused with a luscious core of black raspberry and black cherry preserves and Asian spice. Galloni called it “one of the great, undiscovered wines in Tuscany.”

Matching 94-point ratings. Offered only in a 6-pack collection comprised of three bottles each of the 2009 and 2010. Just $160 for the two-vintage collection; shipping, as always, included.