2023 Domaine Papagiannakos Assyrtiko Attica Greece 750 ml

A crisp, mouthwatering white wine drenched in minerality, grown in limestone-rich vineyards in one of the oldest wine regions in Europe: If you think that sounds like Chablis or Sancerre, you’re right. 

But it also describes today’s 2023 Domaine Papagiannakos Assyrtiko, without a doubt one of the great bargains on the white-wine market. 

We’re sure that if it bore the name of a well-known region it would cost much more—in fact, one member wrote, “These wines are ancient varieties and are easily worth twice the price.” But because Greek wines can be a mystery to many Americans—they’re imported in small quantities and often feature unfamiliar grapes—wines like this Assyrtiko, from storied producer Domaine Papagiannakos, can fly under the radar to all but wine obsessives.

This is bristling with lemon peel, sea spray, and gorgeous minerality. It’s a wine that you can always rely on at dinner, whether you’re grabbing a bucket of fried chicken or shelling out for some wood-fired branzino.

Domaine Papagiannakos has been making wine near Athens for over 100 years and their estate vineyard is perfectly situated to grow grapes of incredible elegance. Facing north rather than south, the vines escape the blistering Mediterranean sun, which allows the Assyrtiko grapes to ripen more slowly, developing complexity and finesse in addition to bright fruit. 

The moderating influence of water—Attica is on a peninsula that juts into the Aegean Sea—also helps tame high temperatures, allowing the grapes preserve their vibrant acidity. The vines are dry-farmed, forcing their roots to spider deep into the stony earth to find water and nutrients. The winemaking regimen employs skin contact and lees-stirring to add texture and weight to the finished wine.