2022 Halpin Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 750 ml

“How many household-name Cabernets would you say there are in Napa?”

We started ticking them off. Opus One, Harlan Estate, Screaming Eagle…

Halpin cut us off. “No, no, no. Not cult Cabernets that only the one-percenters know,” he said. “I mean household names. I mean rock-solid Cabernet you can hang your Stetson on, pardon the mixed metaphor. That you can find at every steakhouse, practically anywhere in the WORLD—and that you know is always gonna deliver.”

We thought for a second. Duckhorn, Hall, Caymus, Pride…

“Bingo!” he exclaimed. “Now you’re in the ballpark,” he said, pulling out a shiner. “That’s the kind of icon that made this badboy right here.” 

Without a word, Sally skated over, plinked two spotless Riedels down on the counter, and whipped a sleek black Laguiole out of her apron. Before we could process what was going on, Halpin was pouring. 

He sensed our bemusement. “Like I said, they know me here.” 

Our noses were still in the glass when the patty melts hit the counter, and we libated. His 2022 Napa Valley Cabernet is excellent—bold and super-smooth on the palate, with tons of black fruit riding on lively acidity. The ripe tannins carry cranberries, boysenberries, cocoa nibs, baking spices, fresh herbs, leather, and pencil lead through the finish.

Halpin had hard-sold the patty melt—worth the hype—but didn’t have to say a word about the wine. We shook on it there and then. Plates clean, glasses dusted, Halpin slid the cork and bottle over to us, and dropped a fifty on the counter. When Sally picked it up, he slapped another $20 down. She smiled.

“So they’ll keep putting up with me.”