Lamy and PYCM charge more than double for this prized site
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2022 Domaine Jerome Fornerot La Chateniere Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 750 ml
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The Village Inflation Forgot….for Now
We get a little jolt of adrenaline when we see a Saint-Aubin Premier Cru on a wine list.
These Chardonnays deliver so much of the crackling, citrusy energy and succulent apple fruit of their neighbors in Puligny-Montrachet, but in a more elegant, vibrant way—AND at half the price. It’s a sure sign that says the sommelier knows exactly what they’re doing.
Jérôme Fornerot is a superstar in the wings in Saint-Aubin, cherished by restaurants like Eleven Madison Park and Café Boulud. His 2022 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru La Chatenière is spectacular.
Fornerot’s family is as established as they come in Saint-Aubin, having made wine there for 500 years. His own domaine is new for Burgundy, however, founded in 2004. This may explain why his pricing hasn’t caught up with his neighbors—there simply hasn’t been time for word to get out. Fornerot is a meticulous one-man show, doing all farming and winemaking himself—and like his neighbor Monsieur Lamy, it’s near-impossible to pull him out of the rows to do any self-promotion.
La Chatenière is one of Fornerot’s oldest plots, with vines between 38 and 100 years old. He owns a scant 0.7 hectares, not even two acres, just enough for about 300 cases of wine per year. Southwest-facing, sun-soaked, and about a ten minute walk from Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, it’s one of the top Premier Crus in the village. “Chatenière tends to make quite an opulent style of Saint-Aubin that deserves a place on the podium,” Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW writes.
This is pitch-perfect Premier Cru, a wine that would easily hang with many Pulignys or Chassagnes at twice the price.