2021 Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen Wachau 750 ml

Rudi Pichler is one of the top names in the Wachau, Austria’s most famous region for immaculately powerful yet precise white wines. He’s won the coveted Winery of the Year award from Falstaff—the Austrian equivalent of Wine Spectator—and his 2021 Smaragd Terrassen Grüner stands tall with the absolute greatest years he’s bottled.

It’s one of the truly elite white wines of the world, capable of going toe to toe with bottles from Burgundy or Alsace that go for three times its price—especially in the classic 2021 vintage, when six weeks of warm, sunny daytimes and shivery nights through September and October allowed grapes to reach the perfect balance of ripeness and acidity. The year was especially good for Grüner Veltliner, which thrived on the extended hang time.

Pichler has some of the best holdings in the Wachau, since they’ve been in the region since 1731. Their steep, terraced vineyards overlook the majestic Danube River—and in the glass, the wines evoke this dramatic landscape.

We couldn't stop grinning once we stuck our noses into the glass. There’s a riot of aromas, headlined by apples, white nectarines, grapefruit, and ginger. The palate continues that kaleidoscopic swirl—all with a perfect balance of richness and acidity, creating a tension that invites one sip after another.

Smaragd is the most prestigious designation accorded to Grüner Veltliner in the Wachau, reserved only for wines with exceptional power and concentration. Unfortunately, while the quality might be high, Pichler’s production remains minute—and most of his wine remains in Austria. However, we wrested away an allocation, and those savvy enough to secure a bottle of this peppery, rich, minerally gem should count themselves lucky indeed.