2021 Hook & Ladder Los Amigos Ranch Merlot Chalk Hill Sonoma County 750 ml

Cecil De Loach, who founded the seminal De Loach Vineyards in 1970, is considered one of Sonoma’s founding fathers. He helped establish the Russian River Valley AVA, and even after selling the De Loach brand in 2003, he and his family have continued to farm and make wines from the 148 acres of the region’s vineyards that he retained. 

Now with the freedom afforded by retirement, his goal is to make estate wines that his friends can afford to drink—specifically his pals from his days as a career San Francisco firefighter. He has owned his vineyards for decades so he can price his wines however he wants, without sacrificing any of the quality that made his first label such a Russian River darling.

Which is why the expressive fruit character of this $20 Merlot is still 100% De Loach. Cecil’s Los Amigos Ranch is located in the Chalk Hill AVA, in the northeast corner of the Russian River region that he made famous. While the larger Russian River Valley AVA appellation is renowned for the Burgundian varieties that thrive in its cool climate, Chalk Hill is a bit warmer—the perfect Sonoma County spot for Bordeaux grapes that thrive in Los Amigos.

Factor in the higher elevation and volcanic soils—think of the red dirt of eastern Oakville or Pritchard Hill—and you get the kind of grapes that typically command top dollar. 

The prestigious AVA is home to Chalk Hill Winery and Arnot-Roberts (as well as vines tended by $$$ Vérité), and this succulent Merlot is teeming with inviting dark-fruit aromas, broad and velvety on the palate, and worth every penny of its $40 winery price.