2021 Domaine Alain Geoffroy Chablis 750 ml

Domaine Alain Geoffroy is one of the great purveyors of traditional, linear, unoaked Chardonnay, and their gorgeous 2021 is a classic cuvée that will remind you exactly why Chablis is so popular. A 100% estate-grown gem from the hallowed terroir of Geoffroy’s acclaimed 300-year-old estate, it hails from a vintage that shone as a classic but had yields severely trimmed by frosts, so we were thrilled to nab a tiny allocation. 

It’s a scene we’ll never forget: rows upon rows of vineyards at night, illuminated by the orange glow of hundreds of flickering paraffin candles placed between the vines.

Many Chablis producers resorted to this strategy in order to fend off a polar air mass that descended mercilessly on vines that had just exposed delicate buds following a warm Easter. The downside was a harvest diminished in volume at a time when demand had never been higher.

But the upside was huge. The vintage produced what many of us consider to be textbook Chablis: trim, crisp, and piercing on the palate. It was a throwback to when producers in the region had to labor intensively to achieve ripeness in the fruit—conditions that perfectly suited the old-school winemaking style of Alain Geoffroy and his daughters Cathy and Nathalie. Since this estate-grown wine sees only the inside of stainless-steel tanks, nothing detracts from the sleek texture and tautness of the palate. 

All the usual pairings will shine with this Chablis, but we have a surprising favorite: Chinese takeout. Blessed with the perfect acidity to play off the fat of pork fried rice or the sweet, umami notes of ingredients like sesame and peanuts, this wine is a gourmand’s secret weapon.