2020 Montalbera Fuori Catalogo Rosso Piemonte 750 ml

We have a Piemontese parish priest to thank for this wine.

In the 1970s, Don Giacomo Cauda took an interest in the ten rows of Ruchè growing in a vineyard that supported his parish—and was captivated by the soaring aromatics it produced in his red wines.

At the time, Ruchè plantings were on the decline—for the longest time, locals mostly used it for sweet wines, even if they were often saved to celebrate special occasions like births, marriages, and christenings—but Cauda’s Vigna del Parroco captured the imagination of drinkers across The Boot, saving the grape from near-extinction. But it’s still rare. 

Ruchè’s aromatic nature means it is unusually sensitive to heat in the vineyard, so it thrives only in select corners of Piemonte—and even then mostly on north-facing slopes. Growing it is a real labor of love, but since it’s impossible to replicate the cornucopia of flavors it brings to the glass, producers like Montalbera keep the faith and reap the rewards.

In his book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Vinous critic Ian D’Agata wrote “If there is one Italian grape that wine lovers really ought to know, it is Ruchè.” Montalbera is one of its true champions. They were the first producer to win a coveted Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso for a Ruchè wine—and then the first producer to win two. It’s a testament to their mastery of the grape and focus on quality, which comes through in the Fuori Catalogo. It might just be the perfect weeknight bottle.