2020 Bruno by Karthauserhof Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Mosel 750 ml

Karthauserhof stands as one of the marquee producers of the Ruwer valley, a tiny, wild hamlet in the Mosel known for wines with electric acidity and woodsy accents. Their Bruno bottling is a fantastic value in the increasingly popular style known as Feinherb, which means that it’s just barely off-dry, using a whisper of sweetness to highlight the wine’s citrusy fruit.

This Wine Enthusiast Editors’ Choice is a wine the world should be talking about. Bruno is endlessly versatile at the table, with enough acidity to pair brilliantly with fried chicken and fish and the fruit to sidle up alongside a Vietnamese rice noodle salad. And that’s to say nothing of its porch appeal. But like most German Riesling, it remains one of the most overlooked—and therefore underpriced—wines of its caliber.

Karthauserhof’s founding dates back to 1335, when the Elector of Trier gave vineyards that had been farmed since the Romans ruled the area to a Carthusian monastery. The winery has been one of the noteworthy producers in the area ever since, and has only gone from strength to strength since the Tyrell family acquired the property in the middle of the 20th century.

Current winemaker Christian Vogt took the reins in 2008, and he employed a minimal-intervention approach with the Bruno Feinherb. The hand-harvested grapes are pressed gently, then allowed to ferment and settle naturally. Only a little more than a touch of sulfur is added. This cellar regimen allows for a very pure expression of the steep slate vineyards across the Mosel that go into Bruno—and makes for a remarkably delicious bottle.