2020 Foxen Winery Chenin Blanc Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard Santa Maria Valley 750 ml

Foxen sets the bar for Santa Barbara Pinot and makes some killer Syrah, but their mastery goes far beyond those varieties. Case in point: The delectable 2020 Chenin Blanc Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard.

This is one of the most enthralling white wines we’ve seen come out of Santa Barbara in a long time. It has the complexity to stand toe to toe with classic Loire Valley Chenins but offers a panoply of fruit, florals, and spice that’s distinctly California: crushed pineapple, pear, lemon zest, chamomile, white flowers, and ginger, all buttressed by a crisp, mouthwatering acidity.   

Planted in 1966, the three-acre Wickenden Vineyard sits in the heart of the Santa Maria Bench, a shallow, rocky area along the banks of the Sisquoc River. Situated in a wind-protected swale at the mouth of Tepesquet Canyon, the Chenin vines here are some of the oldest—if not THE oldest—in the US, and they yield highly concentrated grapes that add a weighty texture to the wine. 

California Chenin doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. The noble grape of France’s Loire Valley, it’s prized for its delicate apple and floral notes, luxurious texture, and crisp acidity. However, it also grows amazingly well in the Golden State, where it gains in richness and adds tropical notes to the mix. 

This Chenin loves Asian food: It matches perfectly with anything from teriyaki’s pineapple accents to sushi, where it acts like the cleansing pickled ginger meant to be eaten between pieces. Savor it now or over the next five to ten years—it’s immensely appealing and endlessly rewarding.