2020 Dr. H. Thanisch Feinherb Riesling Mosel 750 ml

The vineyards behind the frozen-in-time German village of Bernkastel rise so steeply, it’s hard to avoid getting vertigo while looking up at them. How—and why—anyone planted vines on the treacherously steep, slate slopes to begin with feels like a mystery lost to time.

It’s a testament to the magic of the Mosel and the craftsmanship of the Thanisch family—whose winemaking history stretches back over 375 years—that the 2020 Dr. H. Thanisch Feinherb Riesling Mosel exists. It’s an improbability at best, with the thrilling combination of sumptuous, barely sweet stone fruit and tangy acidity that’s unique to the area—and it’s one of the best values in the wine world.

Thanisch is one of the preeminent producers in Germany. They’re proud owners of a significant portion of the tiny Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard—one of the most prestigious in Germany—which is so prized that the family has not sold a single vine in 120 years.

Here in the Mosel, the blue-slate soils hold onto the warmth of the sun, allowing Riesling a long, even ripening period. The steep vineyards require all work be done by hand, meaning only the most devoted of producers, like Thanisch, will do the hard work to make wine from these sites.

Their 2020 Feinherb, a German term that indicates a bare whisper of sweetness, is classic Mosel in all the best ways. It’s electric to drink, like lemonade from the gods. Given its off-the-charts refreshment value, we’re always happy to open it as an afternoon treat, to have a glass alongside dinner prep, or to accompany a meal—and we keep finding excuses to open another. You will too.