2019 Thistledown Thorny Devil Old Vine Grenache McLaren Vale 750 ml

We love what's happening with Grenache in South Australia right now—verve and finesse now rule the day. And Thistledown's 2019 Thorny Devil—a lively and detailed and wholly memorable wine from the leading evangelist of this growing movement—sets a standard for the acclaimed new wave style. 

In a category that has drawn numerous comparisons with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Thistledown's Old Vines Grenache from the McLaren Vale redefines what Grenache can achieve. This is a fantastic wine in a thrilling new style that delivers the grace and power of a Rhône blockbuster for next to nothing.

James Halliday, Australia's most august wine critic, tapped Thistledown as a five-star winery and a leading producer of Grenache, which he has variously called the McLaren Vale's "secret weapon" and its “saviour.” About Thistledown’s 2019 Grenaches, he could barely contain himself: “This set of wines is so on the pulse! I am astounded, smitten and swooning, all at once.” 

James Suckling gave this wine a 93-point score based on its "seamless build of finely layered tannins." And it's garnered multiple 92-point scores from locally revered Australian critics, including Gary Walsh at the Wine Front, who summed it up with the phrase “rock solid.” 

Such glowing critical praise makes this standout red all the sweeter, especially when you're sharing it with friends who can't seem to find these wines anywhere! As more and more American sommeliers catch on to the craze, they're snapping up everything for their wine lists, leaving retailers (and homebodies) mostly empty-handed. 

That's why anyone who likes fragrant and energetic red wine should net as much of this star Grenache as possible. We'll be lining our shelves at home and popping it open with wild abandon. Then looking for more wherever and whenever we can.

The visionary team at Thistledown, led by owner, winemaker, and Master of Wine Giles Cooke, are known locally as something like Grenache gurus. They've been out in front of this trend every step of the way, having homed in on the variety starting in 2011, at a time when the prowess of Grenache wasn’t mainstream.

With perseverance and a steady production of critical darlings, Thistledown is now at the forefront of something truly special. They've recently starred in a number of Jancis Robinson articles as well as features in Imbibe, Wine Enthusiast and Decanter magazines, to name a few. Those of us lucky enough to get our hands around some bottles are reaping massive rewards. 

The 2019 Thorny Devil comes from very old vines planted in some of the most cherished sites in "the Vale." These vineyards are sandy and hot, a lot like Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The grapes are all picked by hand, trod by foot, and stirred with manual punchdowns. In other words, handled with care (and vegan-friendly!). About a third of the grapes start fermentation in whole clusters, helping the wine retain a brightness and freshness that plays counterpoint to the natural ripeness of the fruit. The wine is then aged in large, old oak barrels that allow for maturation without overly woody intervention.

The result shows a delicious intensity and purity, bursting with red fruit and floral aromatics. The palate kicks off with fresh raspberry and mint and builds toward a spicy finale. It's totally smashable, in the local parlance, meaning despite its subtlety and complexity it is one easy wine to knock back over a casual afternoon with a friend. It also stacks up well at the table, with enough acid to tackle a tomatillo sauce and enough tannins to wash down a plump chorizo.  All around, a deeply enjoyable beverage.