2019 Paxton Shiraz Quandong Farm McLaren Vale 750 ml

Wines from David Paxton’s grapes are becoming collectors’ items—like the red-hot Mollydooker Velvet Glove Shiraz, which runs for $195—so it’s not surprising that Paxton’s Quandong Farm Shiraz, which he crafted with the help of 2018 Winemaker of the Year Kate Goodman, landed a slot in James Halliday’s Top 100 Wines of 2020, scoring 96. 

Ask legendary Australian viticulturist Paxton what makes this 2019 release so delicious, and he’ll answer in the laconic fashion typical of old farmers: “Good dirt.” But keep him on the phone long enough, as we did, and you begin to understand just what it means to develop vineyards as painstakingly as he has. Strictly reducing inputs, sharply limiting yields, and even filling 1000 cow horns with manure—in accordance with biodynamic practices—all go into making dirt that’s the envy of his McLaren Vale neighbors. 

Working in wine since 1979, Paxton has had a hand in the evolution of some of the top estates in Australia, consulting on or managing vineyards for the likes of Yalumba, Penfolds, Chandon, and Plantagenet. From the early 2000s on, he became a pioneer in McLaren Vale for biodynamic farming in vineyards, implementing its rigorous standards across hundreds of acres.

Paxton’s got more than a few tricks up his sleeves. Back in 1997, as he toured the property now known as Quandong Farm, he told the realtor that he intended to plant Quandong trees. This wasn’t true of course, but he knew full well the price would go up if they knew he planned on a vineyard—and, luckily,  Quandong trees look suspiciously like Shiraz vines. Now hitting their stride at 22 years, the farm’s vines produce brilliantly expressive fruit for this excellent wine.