2019 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace France 750 ml

Weinbach’s estate Riesling is one of the star values in great wine: a racy, mineral, bottling from their famed Clos des Capucins vineyard, first planted in 1612—yes, you read that right—and given the same love and attention as the their $80+ Grand Cru bottlings.

It’s argument number one for why Alsace is the epicenter of epic dry Riesling. Long before dry was cool in Germany, the Alsatians had perfected the art of bright, steely Riesling—and Weinbach is one of the region’s most storied names. 

That we’re able to offer a wine of this caliber, from an estate this renowned would be unthinkable in other regions with similar histories and prestige, like Burgundy.

This Riesling is uncompromising in its expression of Alsace’s most noble grape, without the pricing that often comes with Alsace’s Grand Crus. It jumped out of a lineup in a recent tasting, with aromatics that recall citrus, ripe melon, and orange peel. The palate shows a stunning minerality, led by wet rocks and quartz, with highlights of lemon blossom, verbena, and juicy nectarine filling out the lively mouthfeel.

In short, it’s quintessential Alsace, which goes without saying for a Weinbach wine. One of the great family estates of the region, which lies on the border of France and Germany, they produce a stunning array of wines from some of the best sites. But their monopole, the Clos des Capucins, is a wonderful glitch in the system: a jewel of a vineyard without the official classification (and pricing) to match.

First planted in 1612 by the Capuchin monks, it’s been a prized vineyard ever since—and a gem in the Weinbach holdings since the Faller family, who run the storied domaine, acquired it in 1898. Despite its long-recognized greatness, the vineyard isn’t classified as a Grand Cru—solely because it sits at the foot of a slope, not higher up.

That small difference in topography doesn’t affect the quality of this modest 12-acre vineyard, but it does mean that their estate Riesling stays reasonably priced, despite the site’s four centuries of acclaim.

Its gravelly, sandy loam and granite pebbles are instrumental in moisture and heat retention to ensure perfect ripening. Weinbach prunes the vines short for low yields and high quality, while biodynamic farming improves soil health and ensures that the grapes reach their fullest potential. In the winery, the star treatment continues with slow, gentle, whole-cluster pressing—ideal for maintaining the wine’s delicacy.

Native-yeast fermentation further helps the stellar terroir express itself, before eight to ten months of aging in large, old, oak vats builds complexity and texture without woody flavors. The result is a classic Alsatian Riesling of the highest quality, but at a price that demands you buy in bulk.