2018 Virna Borgogno Barolo Cannubi 750 ml

Grape growers recognized the sublime quality of the fruit grown on Cannubi’s slopes as early as the 18th century, and even put the vineyard's name on bottles long before the Barolo category was invented. Derived from a local dialect, “Cannubi” translates as “mix of soil,” and refers to the geological anomaly that makes the vineyard unique.

Cannubi is the only location in Barolo to feature both Tortonian marl and chalky, iron-rich Helvetian soils. This intersection contributes to the wine’s terrific complexity, manifesting both the graceful and muscular aspects of Barolo’s soul. 

The Borgogno family has owned vines in Cannubi since 1720, and today their name connotes a degree of aristocracy and quality of which most producers can only dream. Virna Borgogno struck out on her own in 2001—during a period when the historic Borgogno label was in a qualitative lull—as Virna saw an opportunity to make a name for herself without having to deal with family politics.

When she left, she took a coveted three-acre slice of Cannubi with her. Crucially, Virna has committed to a modern approach in the winery, employing a 10-12 day maceration of the hand-harvested grapes that’s designed to extract plenty of Cannubi’s powerful fruit while limiting its harsh tannins. In the cellar, she ages in a mixture of 500L tonneaux as well as large, old-school botti, polishing the wine to a lush texture without sacrificing freshness.