2018 Mommessin Vieilles Vignes Macon-Villages 750 ml

It’s not often that an $18 Chardonnay causes us to nearly miss an international flight. But then again, it’s also not often that we discover the golden paragon of what every village white Burgundy should be in both impeccable charm and inimitable affordability.

A Mâcon-Villages so zesty and charismatic that it perked up even the most travel-weary in our crew, this tonic flowed freely as the minutes disappeared—and was well worth a near brush with the Air France customer service hotline.

For true white Burgundy lovers—or any fan of crisp, lively Chardonnay—this 2018 Mommessin Vieilles Vignes is pure joy to drink. It’s impossible not to smile as you take in its immediate burst of white blossoms, orchard fruit, and tropical hints. Polished and rounded, Sicilian lemon notes cut through the richness, making it a feat of noble restraint to put the glass down before surrendering to the next sip. A hint of marzipan joins the party on a finish that goes forever—if you have the patience to let it.  

Founded in 1865, Mommessin has developed a loyal following among the local Parisian bistros since before the Belle Époque. The domaine’s long-term contracts with growers in southern Burgundy likewise extend over 100 years, which is why the price on this Vieilles Vignes—a selection of the best 40+ year-old vineyards in the Mâconnais—has never kept up with the quality.

Despite its long history, the Mâconnais has become the next “it” Burgundy region where top vintners have started seriously investing in recent years. That next-generation focus has resulted in a renewed commitment to organic principles, hand-harvesting, and minimal use of oak to allow the inherent character of the grapes to shine through. 

The oldest Chardonnay vines, like the ones that go into this Mommessin, are raised on chalky clay slopes, and benefit from an added dose of southerly sunshine. The finished wine thus mirrors both the vibrancy and focus of its pricier northern neighbors while maintaining the juicy ebullience we crave in village white.

Which is why this 2018 Mommessin Mâcon-Villages is the kind of wine we go to France hoping to discover in some Hemingway-esque hole-in-the-wall—the type of bistro that scratches that final Gallic itch as you convince yourself that you don’t really have to get the airport a full two hours before your flight. Where even the simplest escargot on toasted baguette is a buttery epiphany that begs you to order “one last bottle” more than one last time.

We ordered three last bottles of the Mommessin before conceding that Air France wouldn’t wait for us to finish a fourth and instead convinced the owner to sell us whatever he had left that we could fit in our suitcases.

Once home, those bottles didn’t last long, and neither did our will to live without a steady supply of what we crowned the perfect Burgundy case-buy. 

It’s a total steal that competes with wines at twice its price. If you’re anything like us, you’ll be drinking this over the next five years, and drinking it often.