2018 La Maldita Garnacha Rioja 750 ml

Bodegas Vivanco is one of those mad wineries that have their pick of old, gnarled Garnacha vines across Rioja, and they turn those stunning raw materials into outrageously good bottlings. Their goal is to explore Spanish terroir in unique, varietally-specific ways and they're becoming absolute rockstars—providing the house wines at the most in-the-know kitchens in Rioja.

A bright, fresh interpretation of one of Spain’s noble grapes, we have a new go-to red from Vivanco for anyone who digs on wines from West Coast Pinot to great Côtes du Rhônes: La Maldita Garnacha is a stellar, do-it-all red that’s an even better deal. 

As we popped into tapas bar after tapas bar on our Spain trip last spring, there was only one thing on our minds: We had to go back to Asador el Tahiti, our second stop of the night, to re-taste the La Maldita Garnacha we'd tried there.

The night we first tasted it was unusually epic—a sprawling ramble along the town’s tapas row in Logroño, Rioja's capitol and the best place to taste new and exciting projects from the under-the-radar winemakers of the area.

This wine was rich and intense enough that it paired perfectly with their grilled lamb chops and jamón Ibérico, but nonetheless retained the grace to elevate simple pan con tomate and piquillo peppers. Could it have been as good, and as inexpensive, as we remembered? We had to go back.

Garnacha is a historically important grape variety in Rioja, but is often overshadowed by the dominant Tempranillo. These days, a small band of renegade winemakers have turned to the grape to produce bright, lively wines—inspired by Burgundy as much as the Rhône. 

These represent some of the most exciting wines coming out of Spain, and some of the best values as well. We've been digging on La Maldita for months since we brought it back from Spain, and soon you'll be going through it at an alarming pace, as well. 

When we found it in our glasses a third time (and again back home in Napa), we realized that it wasn't just some smoke-and-fat induced hallucination—this wine is the real deal. Bright ruby in hue, the nose pops with raspberries and strawberry jam, framed nicely by touches of citrus, cedar, and spice. The palate is lively and bright, with red currant and juicy black raspberry flavors. It’s a total Swiss-Army knife of a red with a massive deliciousness quotient—more than worthy of our obsessions, even before factoring in the stunning price.

It’s a wine for all seasons—and no, you aren’t dreaming, either.