2018 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley 750 ml

Owned by the family responsible for Bien Nacido Vineyard—considered one of the “Top Grand Cru Vineyards in California” by Wine Enthusiast—Miller family bottlings mean two things: outstanding quality, and special-occasion pricing. But this 2018 J. Wilkes upends the status quo, providing legendary pedigree and complexity for $20.  

The J. Wilkes label has hit the big time: It made its way to the White House as the official Guest House red after wowing dignitaries at various State Department dinners; Emeril’s flagship restaurant in New Orleans has featured it by the glass; and the last vintage received its best score yet—a 93 from Tasting Panel magazine, which called the 2017 “spectacular.” 

Delicate aromas of dried cranberry and wet stone hint at its Central Coast origins, but the juicy palate’s high-toned cranberry and strawberry are a dead giveaway for its more specific Santa Maria Valley birthplace. Earthy, tea-like tannins are a Bien Nacido hallmark, and a rousing white pepper note cuts through the lifted fruit character to give the 2018 its gravitas and balance.

J. Wilkes highlights the best of Santa Maria Valley—the second oldest appellation in the U.S., established the same year as the Napa Valley AVA (1981). The region is considered the soul of Santa Barbara wine country, thanks in large part to the Millers, whose expert management of their flagship Bien Nacido Vineyard since 1973 has given rise to some of California’s most celebrated Pinot Noirs from names like Au Bon Climat, Ojai, and Foxen. And after the family hired Clos Pepe’s winemaking legend Wes Hagan—a Wall Street Journal Winemaker of the Year —the J. Wilkes label really hit its stride.

Santa Maria Valley’s low-nutrient sandy soil, strong Pacific winds, and sun-kissed ridges are the region’s signature. Its slopes are on the receiving end of one of the few east-west transverse mountain ranges in California, which allows maritime-influenced morning fog and cool afternoon breezes to produce small vines with limited vigor, tiny clusters, and a rare combination of verve and elegance in the wines.

The Millers were close family friends of J. Wilkes’s founder, Jeff Wilkes, who passed away in 2010 with no heirs. They purchased the label from his estate and relaunched it as a tribute to him, pledging to maintain the same exacting farming standards they apply to every Santa Maria Valley grape they touch. That includes a healthy dose of grapes from Wine & Spirits Top 25 Vineyard, Bien Nacido, in every vintage. 

That’s an impressive amount of ground to cover for a sub-$20 Pinot. We can’t wait to see how the 2018 fares with the critics based on how hard we’ve already fallen for it. Vinous’s Antonio Galloni recently called the Central Coast “one of the most exciting and dynamic regions anywhere in the world,” and this 2018 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir almost single-handedly proves it with its top-tier vineyard and winemaking pedigree, serious quality, and crazy value.