2018 Georg Gustav Muller-Thurgau Huff Rheinhessen (1 L) 1000 ml

Georg Gustav Huff’s Müller-Thurgau was a bold choice—and a wine we can’t stop thinking about.

We had just ordered dinner in Queensyard’s mid-century-London-inspired dining room and were gazing out over Thomas Heatherwick’s Vessel, beautifully illuminated in the chilly night. It was a birthday celebration, and the sommelier knew they had carte blanche when picking a bottle to accompany our seafood-centric main courses.

But we nearly fell out of our velvet-covered chairs when we saw what they were bringing over: No high-dollar Champagne or precious white Burgundy, but instead, Huff’s humbly-priced, zesty Müller-Thurgau was going to be the showpiece wine of the night.

It was practically a provocation—except the wine delivered in spades, elevating our braised Atlantic halibut with truffles and sunchokes and a beautifully cooked Dover sole with bottarga and lime butter. It was memorably delicious, with vibrant stone fruit, a touch of richness, and a bright, zippy finish that allowed the complex seafood dishes to shine.

Now, nearly a year later, we’re finally able to offer our members a chance at that magic—another piece of evidence that you can drink incredibly well off the beaten path, if you trust your guide. 

Müller-Thurgau is the grape that Germans love too much to share. While Riesling is the king of the export market, Müller-Thurgau is beloved for its bright, delicious drinkability and crisp, go-with-anything charm—there’s a reason it’s the second-most planted grape in its native land.

Georg Gustav Huff’s version of the grape comes from their top vineyards in the prestigious Roter Hang in the Rheinhessen—red-soiled hillsides that produce Keller’s $500+ Hipping GG Riesling. It’s a pretty tony neighborhood for a wine of this price, but Huff’s an old-school producer who’s had their vineyards for generations and likes to make wine for everyday drinking.

The liter format is king in Germany for its stellar value—and we’re thrilled to have an extra couple of glasses in the bottle for a delicious wine like this. It bursts with emphatic aromas of lemon blossoms and white peaches, along with delicate honeysuckle and clean, spring air. The stainless-steel-aged wine has some natural body from the grape, but no oaky notes to mask its pure, vibrant flavors. Its crisp, dry finish practically begs for another sip.

Once we tried it, we knew we had to offer it to our members, but it was sold out—too much demand from restaurants in New York and Germany, it seemed—so we’ve been waiting patiently for the new vintage to make it to our shores.

Since that dinner, every time we’ve tried a bottle of crisp Albariño or vivacious Muscadet, we’ve thought about Huff’s Müller-Thurgau, and how we couldn’t wait to drink it again. Thankfully, that day’s finally come—for a little while, at least.