2018 Eighty Four by Shafer Albarino Carneros Napa Valley 750 ml

Shafer is one of the most storied names in Napa, with a devoted following for its treasured Cabernets—but they make a white wine that’s unknown to all but their superfans. Their Eighty Four Albariño is a crisp, bright classic from their estate vineyards in Carneros, and despite its impressive pedigree and 93-point score, we’re able to offer it for $20.

Don’t let the price tag fool you—this a wine that’s crafted with every bit of the same attention and care as Shafer’s $300 Hillside Select Cabernet and $55 Red Shoulder Ranch Chard. It’s very much the passion project of longtime Shafer winemaker Elias Fernandez, who spearheaded the planting of a tiny four-acre block near their Carneros Chardonnay, and turns those lovingly farmed grapes into the fresh, unoaked white we fell in love with.

When we poured the bright, pale-straw wine into our glasses, the first thing we noticed was how pure and fresh the aromas were. Mirabelle plums, white nectarines, and hints of grapefruit zest burst out of the glass, with hints of rosemary and white flowers framing the beautiful fruit. On the palate, the wine is zesty and juicy at the same time, with fresh Blenheim apricots, Saturn peaches, and green apple flavors leading to a steely minerality and hints of tarragon. Most of all, the wine felt joyous and energetic in the glass—cheerleading for another sip.

Shafer’s Eighty Four wine label is an homage to 1984, the year longtime winemaker Elias Fernandez started working at Shafer, straight out of UC Davis. It’s practically the definition of a passion project, allowing the winemaking team to work with grape varieties that wouldn’t necessarily fit under the existing Shafer brand—and their Albariño might be their biggest success, proof that Fernandez was right about the classic Spanish grape’s potential in Napa.

Grown entirely on an estate vineyard planted in the breezy Carneros district, where cool winds and fog preserve brightness and acidity in the grapes over their growing season, the team at Shafer works to ensure the wine is all about pure fruit. That means fermenting and aging it entirely in stainless steel to avoid any oak influence, and preventing malolactic fermentation to keep it as zesty as possible, complementing its pure orchard fruit.

It’s drinkable proof that Albariño is an undersung grape in Napa—and based on how good this wine is, we’d expect to see more of it planted in the next few years. Until then, though, we’ll have to raid the Shafer’s four acres for our supply, which won’t go very far. It’s up to you to stock up in the meantime.