2018 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Feinherb Mosel 750 ml

The vineyards behind the frozen-in-time German village of Bernkastel rise so steeply, it’s hard to avoid getting vertigo while looking up at them. At first glance, it’s immediately apparent that their wines would be impressive. What’s less obvious is how anyone planted vines on the treacherously steep, slate slopes to begin with—much less how a wine from those vineyards could be so affordable.

It’s a testament to the magic of the Mosel and the craftsmanship of the Thanisch family that today’s wine exists. It’s an improbability at best, with the thrilling combination of sumptuous, barely sweet stone fruit and tangy acidity that’s unique to the area—and one of the best values in the wine world, which Vinous praised for being “impeccably balanced.”

Make no mistake about it, this wine may be inexpensive, but Thanisch is one of the preeminent producers in Germany. They’re proud owners of a significant portion of the tiny Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard—one of the most prestigious in Germany—which is so prized that the family has not sold a single vine in 120 years.

Here in the Mosel, the blue-slate soils hold onto the warmth of the sun, allowing Riesling the long, even ripening period essential to the area’s signature combination of brilliant fruit, electric minerality, and bright, zesty finishes. The steep vineyards require all work be done by hand—good luck getting a tractor up those slopes—meaning only the most devoted of producers, like Thanisch, will do the hard work to make wine from these sites.

Their 2018 Feinherb, a German term that indicates a bare whisper of sweetness, is classic Mosel in all the best ways. White nectarines, Greengage plums, and lemon blossoms swirl on the nose, while the palate combines perfectly ripe stone fruit with Bernkastel’s signature lime zest and slatey-mineral flavors. It’s electric to drink, like lemonade from the gods.

Although it’s significantly less expensive, their Feinherb is made with the same care and techniques as their $60 Doctor Auslese. Wunderkind winemaker Maximilian F. W. Ferger ferments all the wines with native yeasts for maximum complexity, while aging is done in a combination of stainless steel for freshness and fruit, and large, old, Fuder casks which lend the wines texture and minerality.

When you combine the quality of the vineyards and winemaking with the stunning 2018 vintage, it results in a winning bottle. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate praised the ‘18 vintage for its “exuberant” wines that are “lush and charming on the palate”—exactly what we’re looking for in a wine that’s perfect for drinking now with green curry mussels or a seared pork chop with apples and potatoes.

Given the off-the-charts refreshment value, “sample” bottles have been vanishing dangerously quickly. Either as an afternoon treat, glass alongside dinner prep, or with a meal, we keep finding excuses to open another. You will too.