2018 Domaine Gerard Brisson Les Charmes La Louve Morgon Beaujolais 750 ml

Wine Access members have rare access to one of the hottest producers in all of Beaujolais: Domaine Gérard Brisson.

Gérard Brisson’s “Les Charmes” La Louve Morgon just may be the finest example of Cru Beaujolais you can purchase today. Hailing from the preeminent cru of Morgon, this wine expresses the rich boldness that Beaujolais devotees adore about the cru, and these fans are quick to grab bottles when they can get their hands on them. 

Wine writer Jon Bonné dubbed Beaujolais “this generation’s red Burgundy” and famed chefs like Daniel Boulud tout its ability to pair with food. Its rich fruit flavors combined with earth and spice—all wrapped up in a Pinot Noir-like body—makes the Gamay of Beaujolais a truly crowd-pleasing wine. We haven’t met anyone who walked away unimpressed.

Brisson’s 2018 Morgon exudes complexity in flavor, including “dark fruits and layers of spice are rounded by a cigar box note with precision.” Decanter awarded it 95 points for its “highly polished, concentrated black cherry notes, succulent texture; lush velvety, ripe tannins and a very long finish” and James Suckling noted its “spicy nose” and “defined tannins.”

It’s all thanks to Brisson’s commitment to the ancestral traditions of Morgon winemaking. Born into four generations of winemakers, Brisson leads the charge alongside his wife and son, who all strive to showcase the best of the Morgon terroir and heritage. 

Part of that is defining distinct lieu-dit, such as Les Charmes, the vineyard where he sources the Gamay for his Morgon; its prestigious old vines date back 50 to 100 years, spread across a hillside. He eschews contemporary techniques such as thermo-vinification in favor of classic methodologies, like the whole-cluster fermentation with natural yeasts known as carbonic maceration. A walk through his cellar just may transport you back in time to the 15th century, when Brisson’s family got their start in Beaujolais.

What is entirely modern, though, is the popularity explosion of Beaujolais over the past four decades. Gone are the days that Beaujolais Nouveau was synonymous with the region. Today’s producers, like Brisson, grew up watching vignerons rethink what Cru Beaujolais is and institute changes like organic farming. The resulting bottles are stunning examples of approachable, full-bodied wines that slip elegantly onto any dinner party menu.