2018 Clos Fornelli La Robe d'Ange Vin de Corse Rouge 750 ml

Mountainous, sun-drenched Corsica is home to rare native grapes that produce what Food & Wine called some of the “best and most distinctive wines made anywhere in France.” Similarly, Decanter praised Corsica’s grapes as “some of the most distinctive varieties of any territory in France.” That includes Sciaccarellu, a dark-skinned, aromatic variety that grows on Corsica better than anywhere else in the world, and grows in Clos Fornelli vineyards better than almost anywhere on Corsica. 

There is perhaps no better gateway to the island’s diverse terroir than the supple, complex Clos Fornelli La Robe d'Ange. Clos Fornelli crafts only the purest expressions of the island’s native varieties. The level of attention and meticulous farming practices they employ for these small-production wines would translate to elevated prices elsewhere. This single-bottle Corsican crash course, however, remains a stunning value.

The 2018 La Robe d’Ange isn’t just a novelty, though. Its enticing texture and depth stand up to classic, prestigious French and Italian reds, as we discovered at a busy eatery in the seaside town of Aléria. After a day at the beach, we found ourselves surrounded by plates of Figatelli, chestnut polenta, goat cheese, and boar stew—traditional Corsican favorites. The table was so full we could hardly find a place to put down our glasses. But after pouring the Clos Fornelli, we didn’t want to. 

The nose alone could distract you long enough to let your stew go cold, inviting you into layer upon layer of black plum, raspberry, pink peppercorn, and herbs de provence. Linger, but not too long, because the palate has a lot more in store, enveloping you in black cherry and brambleberry and keeping your eyebrows raised with touches of spice and earth. This is an accessible combination of grape and terroir that whisks you away to Corsica’s cool seaside plains with enough depth and vibrancy to satisfy discerning palates. 

Ascend from Aléria and you’ll find rolling plains at the foot of a sharp mountainous incline. Here, on the terraces of the Bravone River, Clos Fornelli cultivates the classic Corsican varieties Sciaccarellu, Vermentinu, and Niellucciu in a picture-perfect microclimate. Corsica gets more sunlight and less rain than anywhere in France. The Alérian plains are unique, though, because their steep mountain backdrop blocks late-day sunlight, leading to cool nights that preserve the Sciaccarellu’s freshness and texture. Alluvial soils full of clay and gravel from the nearby river help retain water, which is essential during Corsica’s dry summers. All of this combines to provide ideal conditions for Sciaccarellu.

Purity is all-important for Clos Fornelli. Everything they do is dedicated to conjuring unadulterated expressions of native Corsican varieties, including farming techniques like Cordon de Royat pruning and enroulement that ensure the low yields and ripeness necessary to draw out the unique aspects of their terroir. Their organic, low-intervention practices allow the vines to maintain a singular focus on producing fruit. 

What you get are pristine grapes saturated with the best attributes of maritime air, water-retentive soils, and cool mountain winds, and a wine that encapsulates Corsica like few others can.