2018 Broglia La Meirana Gavi di Gavi Italy 750 ml

Priced as a banquet hall white, but built with the wow-factor of a taut, mineral-laden white Burgundy, Broglia’s La Meirana Gavi di Gavi has stolen the show on more than one occasion, from G20 Gala Dinners to the Tre Bicchieri cocktail hour where we discovered this truly best-in-class wine.

And though the 2018 La Meirana drinks like its $50+ Côte de Beaune neighbors to the north, it’s a steal at $20.

After a day of tasting dozens upon dozens of Italy’s crema della crema, we hardly noticed what was poured in our glasses as we entered the Tre Bicchieri reception in San Francisco earlier this year. Assuming it was a standard welcome quaffer, we were busy taking in the scene as we absentmindedly raised the lemon-gold liquid to our noses, but after a single sip we could think of nothing else.

While we attempted to network, fragrant floral aromas kept us delightfully distracted, twirling around mineral-laced lemon and luring us back in for more. Honeydew melon and Granny Smith apple get a dusting of anise, almond, and honey, evolving into an almost Puligny-like structural depth on the mid-palate.

Crisp, pure, and focused throughout, the hints of crushed granite leave a note of intrigue on the finish. Given our hosts, we knew this mysterious Burgundy ringer had to be Italian, but we practically attacked the nearest server to discover what exactly it was.

Sure enough, it was Broglia, one of the few producers that specializes in 100% Cortese—the exclusive grape variety that goes into Gavi. Known for centuries as one of Piedmont’s best white wines, the category has seen a recent resurgence thanks to producers like Broglia, whose unique calcareous-marl soils have helped raise the wine’s profile as Italy’s terroir-driven answer to White Burgundy.

Located about 60 miles southeast of Turin (and surrounded by a sea of Nebbiolo), the Broglia family’s outstanding, small-production La Meirana estate in Gavi has redefined what Cortese is capable of, enhancing the innate complexity and cellar potential in the grape’s natural acidity by allowing extended aging on its lees before release. The result is a strikingly nuanced white that perfectly balances mineral richness and a thrillingly zesty lift.

Now a third-generation family business, Broglia’s efforts have been rewarded with recognition as one of the top Gavi producers on the international stage: not only has their La Meirana label won Italy’s prestigious Tre Bicchieri award, it has been among the only wines shown at the prestigious G8 Summit, and was honored as the only white wine to be served to the world’s most eminent leaders at the G20 gala dinner in St. Petersburg.

The Broglia estate has roots in winemaking that date back over a millennium—the ancient Tenuta La Meirana is considered the birthplace of Gavi, dating all the way back to 972. Reaffirming that this regional gastronomic hub has never shied from its exacting culinary standards, it was on this hillside property where the Bishop of Genova granted the first lease for the growing of Cortese, satisfying the aristocracy’s demand for a prestigious white wine to pair with their Mediterranean cuisine.

The Broglia family acquired this historic estate exactly 1,000 years later in 1972 (two years before the area received the designation of Gavi DOCG) and have since led the charge in both modern techniques and in the preservation of their ancient traditions, including their 70+ year-old vines.

At $20 a bottle, we can see why this 2018 Broglia La Meirana Gavi di Gavi is the diplomat’s choice: It has the linear structure, mineral-flecked energy, and mouthwatering acidity that could please any crowd, while also delivering a terroir-driven complexity that absolutely captivates the more discerning among them.