2018 Benevolent Neglect Syrah Las Madres Vineyard Carneros 750 ml

Our first introduction to the Benevolent Neglect Las Madres Syrah came years ago at the three-Michelin star Sonoma restaurant SingleThread. That first taste, blanketing the palate with smooth, savory richness, rocketed this bottle to the top of our list of favorite Syrahs from anywhere in the world.

Now in its third iteration here with the 2018 vintage, it’s become so popular with Wine Access employees—who know now to order it by the case—that the accounting department had to put company accounts on hold. And it’s become such a hotly pursued item among our members, the last two vintages each sold out within a day.

The immersive beauty of the Benevolent Neglect Las Madres Syrah—its ability to transport you to a flinty mountainside rolling with wild blackberries, herbs, and garrigue—has made it an industry sensation. Hailing from a vineyard that Thomas Rivers Brown called “the To-Kalon of Syrah vineyards,” sommeliers at Michelin-starred spots like The Clove Club and Fat Duck are understandably loath to part with it.

So the difficult task of sourcing this bottle has gotten even tougher as the years have gone by—production is extremely small to begin with. We’ve been nagging member-favorite winemaker Matt Nagy since last December to make sure we were first in line for the 2018. Even when he invited us over for a friendly dinner the other week, we couldn’t help talking business, dropping a reminder that however much he had of this benchmark Carneros Syrah, we would take it.

Perched on rolling, east-west facing hills on the Sonoma side of Carneros, Las Madres has few equals for Syrah cultivation. The site benefits from the cooling influence of the Pacific and the rigorous farming practiced by owners Jean Gadiot and John Painter. Syrah from Las Madres has been sought out by heavy hitters like Myriad, Quivet, and Orin Swift The Prisoner, earning barrels of high scores from critics like Antonio Galloni and Robert Parker. 

Matt used the lightest possible touch—plus the experience gained under Napa legends Thomas Rivers Brown and Steve Matthiasson—to allow the 2018 Las Madres Syrah to come alive in the glass. His take on the Las Madres grapes is almost an anti-take, involving as little intervention as possible in the cellar—thus the name Benevolent Neglect. Using no additives or substitutes, the vineyard speaks for itself, showcasing brilliant floral aromatics, deep blackberry notes, and potent layers of smoke and spice. 

At the best price in the country, we expect today’s cases to go fast. If you are serious about stocking up on a Michelin-approved bottling without the white tablecloth mark-up, seize the moment.