2017 La Salita Barolo Piedmont 750 ml

The ravishing 2017 La Solita is the result of a brand-new partnership between a top importer and winemaker Andrea Fiore, the scion of a family that’s farmed grapes on estate properties in the hills of Barolo since the 1920s. Grown in the northern commune of Verduno, where the family’s prized holdings lie, this bottling reflects the shifting dynamics of this tradition-bound region, and it shows how a covey of cutting-edge small producers are refashioning the rules on Barolo winemaking, pricing, and approachability.

One sip of the La Salita’s garnet-hued depths proves that you can scrap conventional wisdom about waiting a decade before uncorking a Barolo. Aromas of dried cherries, dried roses, star anise, tobacco, and orange peel greet the nose, while firm tannins on the palate support savory depths and a sublime acidity, all leading to a long finish.  

Until a few years ago, Verduno was hardly on anyone’s radar. Now, according to Wine Enthusiast, “Verduno is the rising star.” Proximity to the Tanaro River, which cools vineyards with fresh breezes at dusk, helps grapes maintain vibrancy even in parching vintages like 2017.

Hot vintages used to be daunting challenges, but Barolo’s growers now know vastly more about how to deal with warm-weather growing seasons than they did in the past. Vineyard managers can now coax out grapes that possess superior ripeness without sacrificing acidity, thus adding a new element to vintners’ palettes. Today, a new breed of winemakers are crafting Barolos that drink beautifully early but also have solid cellaring potential. 

There isn’t much of this wine—but what we do have shines a light on the future of Barolo.