2017 Illuminati Ilico Montepulciano d' Abruzzo DOC 750 ml

There’s nothing like discovering a knockout wine when you’re least expecting it, and a red sauce Italian hole-in-the-wall is usually not the first place we look. But that’s New York for you.

Illuminati has an avid following in Italy, but has yet to hit the mainstream in the US, though Wine Advocate has urged, “Readers looking for a red that over delivers should seriously consider Illuminati's Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Ilico.” While the rest considered, we jumped—nabbing a Wine Access exclusive on this Wine Enthusiast Editors’ Choice stunner. 

We were in between trade tastings and had a hankering for a classic bucatini all'Amatriciana at a no-name spot one of our importer friends insisted we try out. With all the great wine restaurants in Manhattan, we weren’t initially thrilled to find ourselves in a cramped, low-ceilinged den with Chianti fiascos hanging from the walls. But the paper wine list full of mysterious, unique wineries piqued our interest as the roasted garlic wafting from the kitchen did the same for our appetites.

The Roman owner hand-picks the wine list from his native Italy, and after we went on a bit of a charm offensive to unlock his best bottles, he brought out the 2017 Illuminati Ilico Montepulciano d' Abruzzo.

As soon as he pulled the cork, baked blueberry pie notes further dizzied our senses with hints of vanilla, summer brush, and tobacco. Generously layered with gobs of black and red fruit, the lifted acidity is what makes it “Rome’s favorite companion to Amatriciana,” as the owner proudly declared, while topping up our glasses. While the Ilico is the ultimate match for any tomato and cheese combination, its nuanced tannins make it perfect for just about any entrée landing on the table for the next few years.

After promising not to infringe on the restaurant owner’s tiny allocation, we asked him to make the Illuminati introduction. A few weeks later, we had the U.S. exclusive on the 2017 Ilico—a reserve wine that had already earned Tre Bicchieri, the highest rating from Italy’s most established scoring body.

Over our (sensational) bucatini, our new favorite Roman restaurateur told us that this Montepulciano-based red from Abruzzo has a uniquely harsh terroir that extends beyond the region’s rocky bluffs and brilliant sunlight. Bold and full of varietal voice and territorial expression, he believes the scrappy and insular nature of Abruzzo’s people is reflected in its overachieving wines.

As one of the leaders of the modern Abruzzo wine movement, the Illuminati family is no exception. At 125 years and counting, the multigenerational clan is currently making some of the best wines in the estate’s history under the leadership of Stefano, Lorenzo, and Anna Illuminati—perfecting a clean, varietal style that has earned an underground following among the cognoscenti in neighboring Rome.

Vinous has already called this estate “one of Abruzzo’s finest, renowned for its powerful wines,” which means American consumer awareness of Rome’s favorite value red isn’t far behind.