2017 Highlands Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Howell Mountain 750 ml

Winemaker Paul Segas wouldn’t reveal the famous Howell Mountain vineyard site responsible for this stunning release—he had to sign an airtight NDA to get these grapes—but he did divulge that the vineyard's estate wines typically go for $200-$300 a pop, which was our cue to pounce.

Enter the 2017 Highlands Howell Mountain Reserve. 

Already a rare Howell Mountain value at its suggested price of $85, our decade-long relationship with Highlands (and several glasses of wine with Paul) unlocked an exclusive 47% discount on his Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. After tasting this gorgeously terroir-driven wine, we have some guesses as to its acclaimed vineyard source—but why jeopardize our $45 bottle price? 

We have always loved textbook Howell Mountain Cabernet like this, but where the romance can fizzle is when it’s time to pay the bill, and as much as we adore CADE, Robert Foley, and O’Shaughnessy, a long-term relationship is hard to sustain at over $100 and $200 a date. That’s why we love these NDA vineyard contracts, which unlock access to the same terroir without the eye-watering cost of entry. 

With just as much power, depth, and rich fruit character as its pricey vineyard brethren, the 2017 Highlands Reserve is led by enticing aromas of cassis, dark chocolate, and blackberry, all accented with complex purple flowers and baking spice.

Nestled in the Vaca Mountain range, overlooking St. Helena, the famed Howell Mountain vineyard from which this 2016 Highlands Reserve is sourced is known for its prized volcanic soils, enabling excellent drainage and generating a confluence of superb, terroir-driven complexity. It’s planted 2,400 above sea level, facing west to capture all that dreamy afternoon sunlight while cool Pacific breezes keep acidity levels bright and lifted in the finished wine. 

Highlands was founded by enologist Dave Cofran—who managed none other than Silver Oak for 20 years prior—and his partner, veteran grape grower Paul Segas, whose premium-quality grapes have been a hot commodity for such legendary Napa names as Chateau Montelena, Pine Ridge, Robert Mondavi, Joseph Phelps, Domaine Chandon, and Mumm for over 30 years. Everyone in the Valley has clamored to work with Paul’s grapes at some point, which is how he managed to finagle such an unbelievable deal with one of Howell Mountain’s top estates in 2001. 

That arrangement has since allowed Highlands to produce this mind-blowing Cabernet each year for a fraction of the price it would fetch if Paul named his source. In this 2017, rich and muscular dark fruit, Madagascar vanilla, and cocoa are framed on the palate by firm tannins that demand a second glass now, while promising another two decades of life. 

Our VP of wine Eduardo Dingler fell hard for this wine when he was the sommelier at Napa’s Morimoto, where Paul would seek him out to talk sake (a side passion) and all things Japan—that’s where he sells 20% of his Highlands production each year. For its mere 250 cases, the Howell Mountain Cabernet has an impressive following within Tokyo’s sophisticated wine scene: it’s served at Wolfgang’s Steakhouse, the iconic Oak Door Steakhouse, and Park Hyatt’s New York Grill (known for its incredible wine list). 

Each vintage of Highlands Howell Mountain Cabernet that Eduardo brought in practically flew off the menu at Morimoto, proving its popularity with the American palate as well. He shared a few library vintages he’d stashed away for himself, and we can attest that nearly 20 years on, the 2001 and 2002 are still singing with impressive fruit, making the 2017 as sure a bet for the cellar as it is with tonight’s ribeye. 

At just $45 , you’d be hard-pressed to find a more collector-worthy mountain Cabernet at such a commitment-friendly price.