2017 Gaja Darmagi Langhe Magnum (1.5 L) Magnum

Gaja is probably Italy’s most iconic, collectible producer—and their Darmagi Cabernet symbolizes Angelo Gaja’s revolutionary genius in a single bottle.

It’s a 100% Cabernet that stands with the best of Napa and Bordeaux, exactly as Angelo envisioned when he first planted the vines in the late 70s. At the time, the move was met with shock and outrage, but Gaja—and time—have proved that Cabernet planted in prime Barbaresco vineyards can compete with any in the world for quality and blue-chip status.

Gaja’s vision for producing powerful wines with plush fruit—in contrast to the stark, tannic bottles of the time—launched the modern revolution in Barolo and Barbaresco. Decades ago, he was regarded as heretical, but like many geniuses, the world caught up to his thinking. His wines are now collector must-haves…with the $600+ price tags to match.

After taking over his family’s business in Barbaresco in 1970, Gaja upended conventional wisdom in Piedmont, borrowing techniques from Bordeaux and Burgundy to bring deeper fruit, silkier textures, darker colors, and a more youthful balance to what had historically been fairly rustic, hard wines.

His decision to plant Cabernet prime Barbaresco vineyards was apostasy in tradition-obsessed Piedmont, but today’s wine wouldn’t be possible without that daring and vision. It’s yet another bold call that paid off. As a nod to the scandal at the time, he named his flagship Cab “Darmagi,” which is Piemontese for “what a shame”—his father’s words when he heard about the Cabernet plantings.

Like Gaja’s other bottles, this one is spared no expense in the vineyard or the cellar. The result is a powerful wine that is a little bit Napa, a little bit Bordeaux…but wholly Gaja.