2017 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe La Crau Châteauneuf-du-Pape 750 ml

Vieux Télégraphe. The name alone inspires awe among even the most cynical sommeliers and critics. The stone-strewn vineyard, perched atop Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Crau plateau, has been coaxing complex wines from its ancient vines since the 19th century, and when that expertise combines with the vintage of the century—as it did in the outstanding 2017 vintage—the results are simply stunning. 

It’s one of the few wines that every member of our Wine Team purchases every single year—and we’re down to our very last cases of the 2017 edition. Complex and balanced, rich and smooth, it’s a shining example of why Vieux Télégraphe not only belongs at the top of the French wine food chain (and in your cellar) alongside First Growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy.

Grown on La Crau, arguably the most famous parcel in the South of France, Vieux Télégraphe is a picture of Southern Rhône purity ushered into the bottle by the fifth-generation Brunier family. It delivers tons of pleasure both in its youth and after a long stretch in the cellar, and packs as much power as any wine in France, without sacrificing an iota of complexity, minerality, or intrigue. That’s why it’s taken the #3 spot in Wine Spectator’s Top 100, why Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate says “The quality and consistency of the wines here largely speak for themselves,” and why Jeb Dunnuck asserted that “Lovers of elegant, classical Châteauneuf du Pape” simply “can’t go wrong with this estate.”

We opened the 2017 in the morning—how could we resist?—gave it some air, and drank it throughout the day. Deep ruby with an opaque core, the nose displays a spectrum of blackberry, red currant, garrigue, and incense, while the palate boasts a rich texture and perfect balancing freshness, before easing into a long finish with exotic herbs, smoked game, cracked pepper, and plum compote. Tasting it over a span of hours is like watching an accelerated and extremely graceful evolution: The wine goes from ripe and dense, showing off its sun-baked Grenache, to aromatic and expansive, the garrigue and savory notes showing themselves slowly yet insistently. 

Officially, Châteauneuf-du-Pape has no Grands Crus. But there’s no question among critics, collectors, and red wine lovers that the Rhône’s answer to the Lafites and Latours, Palmers, Pavies, and Romanée-Contis of the world is Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. And that’s thanks in huge part to La Crau. 

There is no piece of land in Châteauneuf-du-Pape more famous than the lieu-dit of La Crau. Located at the extreme southeast of the appellation, it shows millions of years of stratifications (including limestone, silica, and red clay molasse) all topped by round, heavy galets roulés. These stones insulate the organically farmed vines from extreme temperatures and provide excellent drainage for the roots. 

Only grapes from vines aged 20-65 years go into Vieux Télégraphe’s flagship—the younger vines go into the more precocious Télégramme bottling—and after harvest, they’re partially destemmed before spending 25-35 days fermenting in temperature-controlled stainless steel and wood cuves. After ten months in concrete and another in 12 in oak foudres, the wine is bottled unfiltered. 

The result is one of the most regal wines made in France, bar none. This is your last shot at our allocation of the 2017 Vieux Télégraphe. Take advantage, and you’re certain to thank yourself down the road.