2017 Caruso & Minini Perricone Terre Siciliane IGP 750 ml

When most people think of western Sicily, they picture radiant sunshine, crystalline blue waters, cliffs and coves. We think about Perricone, the ruler of the region’s black grapes—its wildly perfumed floral nose, vibrant red fruit, and stunning purity. 

Amongst a handful of Sicilian growers leading a modern Perricone renaissance, Caruso e Minini are tops on the list. Vinous’ Ian D’Agata awarded 95 points to their 2017 offering, calling it “A real knockout of a wine, and easily one of the two or three best Perricones I have ever tried.” For Rhône and Zinfandel lovers, this is life changing stuff—its generous appeal topped only by its incredible value. Highly recommended by the case.

Once the most widely planted grape in western Sicily, Perricone was almost entirely wiped out by phylloxera in the late 1800s. Many vineyards were destroyed or abandoned during WWII, which left the grape on the brink of extinction. But growers like Caruso e Minini have ushered in a new era. Offering abundant red and dark fruits, layered with spice and supported by velvety tannins and refreshing acidity, Perricone wines call to mind the reds of the southern Rhône—without the high price tags. The key differentiator is Perricone’s incredibly perfumed nose, loaded with violets, lilacs, and sandalwood. 

Caruso e Minini’s Perricone is farmed organically atop a windswept hill 20 km from the coastal town of Marsala, where the estate’s 100-year-old winery facility is located. In the vineyards, large stones known as cuti (not unlike the galets roulés of Châteauneuf du Pape) absorb the region’s ample sunlight and direct heat towards the vines, aiding ripening. At the same time, the cooling influence of the nearby Mediterranean moderates temperatures, maintaining vibrant acidity in the grapes. 

A long line of Carusos have farmed vines in Marsala, dating back to the late 1800s when Antonio Caruso began the family tradition. It was Stefano Caruso and his business partner, Mario Minini, who founded Caruso e Minini in 2004, and his daughter Giovana spearheaded the “Bio” project that yielded the 2017 Perricone. Giovana meticulously tends the organically farmed 10-acre vineyard where the family’s indigenous grapes are grown.

Our first taste of the Caruso’s astonishing Perricone came in the presence of the luminous Giovanna herself, at a seminar led by Vinous’ Ian D’Agata. We were all floored by the charisma and delivery of the wine, especially D’Agata, who would later write of the “magical, persistent inner-mouth perfume and truly exceptional clarity and cut.” He added: “This sees no oak whatsoever, and therefore the wine’s magical perfume is really allowed to shine through.” 

“Magic” is really the only way to describe this wine. Its very existence is improbable, meanwhile its depth and nuance suggest a bottle three or four times the cost.