2016 Laztana Gran Reserva Rioja 750 ml

Gran Reservas from Rioja’s greatest vintages are some of the biggest no-brainer buys out there—and doubly so if they’re from the 2016 vintage. Wine Advocate doesn’t think there’s been a better year in the region. The only problem is that ‘16 Riojas are becoming scarce—or expensive, in the case of most late-release Gran Reservas—which makes Laztana’s compelling wine an opportunity we had to go long on.

Alluring, exotic spices from long oak aging meet a deep well of soft cherry fruit enhanced by bottle age, plus bold, sappy concentration, courtesy of ancient Tempranillo vines. “This has the soul of old-school Rioja,” our Master Somm Sur Lucero said—high praise from someone who treasures the style. 

It’s not surprising to see this quality and value from Bodegas Olarra. For almost half a century, the winery has produced top-flight reds of impressive character, combining the region's traditional winemaking methods with state-of-the-art technologies and cutting-edge design. The winery itself, which sits on the Ebro River in the heart of Logroño, is a monument to modern architecture.

Designed by Juan Antonio Ridruejo, the iconic three-winged building (picture the Mercedes-Benz badge) is one of the most breathtaking sites in Spanish wine. Its most prominent feature is the barrel-room roof, a remarkable assemblage of 111 hexagonal domes that go way beyond aesthetics: They’re designed to prevent sharp temperature changes in the cellar.

This is absolutely crucial for Rioja wines, which require careful aging. The 2016 Laztana Rioja Gran Reserva, made from 90% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, and 5% Graciano, was aged for 27 months in new and used American and French barriques, then nearly four years in bottle.