Old Vine Cru Beaujolais “Cellar Selection”

- 93 pts Wine Enthusiast93 pts WE
- 92 pts Vinous92 pts Vinous
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2016 Domaine Anita Moulin a Vent Tres Vieilles Vignes Les Caves Beaujolais 750 ml
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Cru Beaujolais From Under-the-Radar Best
Cru Beaujolais From Under-the-Radar Best
In the tiny commune of Chenas, where the population dips below 500, everyone knows the names of Anita and Andre Kuhnel. “Quelques uns des meilleurs vins du Beaujolais,” (“some of the best wines in the Beaujolais”) they’ll tell you. Of course, as good as the Kuhnel’s 2016 Domaine Anita Moulin-à-Vent Tres Vieille Vignes Les Cave, from one of the top Crus of Beaujolais, could never remain the secret of a sleepy village forever. 93 points and a “Cellar Selection” from Wine Enthusiast, plus 92 points from Vinous have blown the lid off this “focused and energetic” gem with confected notes of black cherry, lingonberry, strawberry, acacia flower, and marjoram on the well-delineated nose. We’re lucky to have secured 56 cases.
A towering stone windmill gave its name to this appellation in the northern Beaujolais, but here in Moulin-à-Vent, Gamay is the real King. The vines belonging to Anita and Andre Kuhnel are perched on the famed hill of “des Caves,” planted in pink-granite soils, which confer an unmistakable mineral element to the wine. Streaks of manganese, found almost nowhere else in the Beaujolais, naturally stunt grape growth, leading to fewer clusters with greater concentration and higher phenolic ripeness.
If your only experience with this area comes from Beaujolais Nouveau, you’re in for a treat. The Kuhnels open the door to another world, where highly aromatic, rich and structured wines are the norm.
As the Wine Advocate wrote, “If you have not discovered the wines of Kuhnel, ‘tis time to do so.” The 2016 Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes offers “a very well defined bouquet with mineral-rich, fresh red berry fruit and hints of wilted violet petals emerging with time.” More complexity follows on the palate with “crisp tannin, dark berry fruit mixed with a subtle marine note, just a suggestion of brine and brown spices enhancing the finish.” As the Advocate concluded, “What an excellent Moulin-à-Vent from the Kuhnels!”