Food & Wine magazine Winemaker of the Year Helen Keplinger is one of the most decorated talents in Napa Valley, and her 2015 Sumo—a red wine that comes from one of the most sought-after sites in California—is a tightly allocated bottle that rarely escapes her mailing list. A rarity in retail shops, almost all of it has been whisked into the cellars of her most dedicated collectors.

That’s why we were thrilled that of her two decades’ worth of top wines—including the cult Cabernets she’s made at Grace Family and Bryant, and the 98- and 100-pointers at Carte Blanche—this is the one she wanted to open and share with us at a recent tasting. And today, we’re sharing it with you. 

Grown at the famed Shake Ridge Vineyard, the Côte-Rôtie-inspired Sumo is absolutely singing five years after harvest, opening to aromas of ripe blueberry, blackberry cobbler, sumac, cracked pepper, and bitter chocolate. Built on Petite Sirah, it’s structured and suave on the palate, with plush tannins that carry ripe blackberry and boysenberry fruits to a long and complex finish adorned with lavender, fresh tar, and peppery spices. 

This is a unique, must-try bottle for wine lovers who want to experience what’s possible when a master adds a little Old World inspiration to a quintessentially Californian grape. 

Inspired by the Grenache she made in her time in the Priorat, Helen Keplinger started her Rhône-focused Keplinger label back in 2006. She mentioned the project to her friend and colleague Andy Erickson, who immediately told her that she had to meet grapegrower Ann Kraemer. So she headed east to Shake Ridge Vineyard in Amador County, and after meeting Ann and taking in her incredible energy and amazing soils, Helen had no doubt: She knew she had to work with the inspiring vigneronne. Seeking Grenache and Mourvèdre, she was told there was none available that vintage.

“Maybe next year.” 

That’s what Helen heard when she inquired about Ann’s extremely in-demand grapes. It was the same story the following year, but Ann did have a few Petite Sirah and Syrah blocks available. Helen was so impressed by Ann and eager to work with the pristine grapes from Shake Ridge that she jumped at the chance and dreamed up a creative blend—and then parlayed Ann’s pristine Petite Sirah, Syrah, and Viognier (and her own open mind) into one of the most delicious and inspired red wines of California.

Ann Kraemer might work 100 miles from Napa, but that doesn’t stop her and her Shake Ridge Vineyard from being revered by Napa Valley winemakers. “The way she farms is so thoughtful, guided by many years of experience and a deep gut instinct,” Helen told us, over a glass of the 2015 Sumo. “There’s no one-size-fits-all approach. She custom-farms every block for different varieties, clones, and when the fruit comes in it’s pristine, and perfect.” 

Since Helen’s Keplinger label was to be focused on Rhône-style wines, those were the grapes she had in mind when she first visited Shake Ridge. But when offered Petite Sirah and Syrah, she agreed to taste some barrel samples, and was absolutely blown away by a revelatory Petite Sirah. 

“It was just gorgeous,” she told us. “It wasn’t rustic at all, but beautiful and round, with crazy depth and beautiful fruit.” 

So Helen did some blending trials from the lineup of available Petite Sirah and Syrah clones, and crafted a Côte-Rotie-inspired cuvée built on Petite Sirah, with a healthy dose of Syrah and a top note of Viognier, all from Shake Ridge Vineyard. And when her first vintage revealed itself as something special from barrel, Sumo—aptly named for the art form of Japanese wrestlers with power, finesse, and grace—has become one of Helen’s marquee wines.

Helen got much more than a fruit source and an incredible wine out of the deal. As a vintner who believes that the greatest wines come from close collaboration between the grape grower and winemaker, she found a friend and truly inspiring partner in Ann Kraemer. Shake Ridge is now one of Helen’s key sources, and Ann one of her key confidantes. 

One sip of the 2015 Sumo, and you’ll see why Shake Ridge Ranch beguiled Helen Keplinger from the start. It’s a wine that we—both Wine Access and Helen Keplinger—can’t wait to share with you.