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2015 Txakoli Aizpurua Txakoli Aizpurua 750 ml
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- Get credited back if a wine fails to impress
Oysters + This Bracing Basque White = A Match Made in Heaven
San Sebastián, the breathtaking seaside city in northern Spain’s Basque region, regularly competes with Kyoto and Lyon for most Michelin stars per capita. Foodies the world over flock to these windswept narrow streets for arguably the most exquisite seafood on the planet. The kitchen at Andoni Luis Aduriz’s Mugaritz sends out dream-like molecular creations; Arzak’s Elena Arzak ravishes the palate with impeccably fresh tuna and lobster preparations.
To drink like a local in this gourmet capital, you order the Txakolina, the racy, piercingly mineral, effervescent white that is a Basque specialty, flowing without stop in the area’s prized pintxos. “In San Sebastián, you wouldn’t believe how much Txakolina is drunk in the month of August alone,” a local producer told the New York Times’s Eric Asimov. No wonder: It’s tailor-made for the raw, profoundly simple pleasures of San Sebastián’s coastal cuisine. Poured, as it customary, from shoulder height, the wine fizzes delectably in the glass, releasing a mouthwatering bouquet of bright citrus notes.
Much of the best Txakolina simply doesn’t make it outside of Spain’s borders. But for today’s offer, we pried loose a small allocation of Getariako Txakolina from the warm 2015 vintage. The Aizpurua family has been growing grapes since 1834. Their wines are produced from 34 acres of clay and sand soils, spidered with vines of up to 60 years in age. The growing conditions are extreme, with the cerulean waters of the Bay of Biscay pummeling the coast just three miles away, and the vineyards situated on extremely steep slopes. The sum effect is one of the most classic, high-acid, low-alcohol Getariako Txakolinas on the market — or “nervy, sharply focused,” if you listen to Antonio Galloni’s Vinous.
The 2015 Bodegas Aizpurua Getariako Txakolina is radiant straw in hue. Bright, chiseled aromas of lemon and lime peel and white flowers. Zesty. Tightly wound, mineral, and juicy on the attack, filled with ripe citrus, finishing with terrific saline persistence. This one is delicious now and at just 11% alcohol, perfect for sipping all afternoon.
Sommeliers and chefs are fond of an old refrain: “If it grows together, it goes together.” When the day’s catch is on the menu this spring and summer, you’ll want a case handy of this electrifying white from a perch on the water’s edge. An irresistible $16.99 for crispest, cleanest Basque brilliance. Just 450 bottles. Shipping included on 6.