2014 Cune (CVNE) Rioja Reserva Spain 750 ml

How does Cune do it? That’s what you’ll be asking after sipping this elegant, bold, and dynamic Rioja Reserva; it’s what Spanish wine lovers have been wondering for well over a century now. Somehow, this pillar of Rioja Alta straddles the line between classic and contemporary, traditional and forward-thinking. 

The vibrant 2014 Reserva bursts with aromas of muddled cherries and woodsmoke, which set the stage for textbook Rioja that is dominated by tart wild cherry, dried cranberry, and cedar-spice seasoning that dances on the palate. It reminded us instantly why Cune is the only Spanish winery ever to receive Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year award. This is a Reserva that offers shocking levels of both quality and value.

Last summer, when we trekked through Spain’s most celebrated vineyards, Cune was on our shortlist of must-see estates. Their wines embody Spanish terroir, combining robust flavors with earthy nuance that will take you from the couch to the streets of Haro… whether you’re eating tapas or an all-American burger.

Praised by Wine Spectator as “fresh and juicy, with good density on the palate,” and awarded 92 points by Master of Wine Tim Atkin, the 2014 is highly approachable and full of class. As Wine Spectator added, “The fruit is spot-lit, while the wine remains harmonious and graceful.”

In every classic wine region in the world, you’ll find a handful of legendary producers who have set the standard and shaped the traditions dictating the stylistic representation of the region’s wines. Cune has been synonymous with high-quality Rioja since 1879, with the 2013 selection of the 2004 Imperial Gran Reserva as Wine Spectator’s #1 wine of the year, the first Spanish wine to be so honored. That’s just one highlight of Cune’s proud history.

Sourced from estate vineyards in Rioja Alta, where iron oxides tint the crumbly soil a burnt orange and thick Tempranillo vines crane their arms skyward under the hot Spanish sun, the 2014 was held for two years of bottle aging at Cune’s historic cellar in Haro. A striking architectural masterpiece designed by Alexandre Gustav Eiffel, their barrel cellar epitomizes the combination of modernity and tradition embodied by Cune wines. During its long slumber at the estate, this crimson wine gained breadth and savory complexity, which come through on the palate in notes of leather, cedar, and exotic spice. The result is an incredible deal at $25—an unlikely gem, both delicious and cellar-worthy.

In the 2014 Reserva, 85% Tempranillo is supported by 15% Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo, yielding a seamless blend. As Wine Spectator wrote, “Black cherry and plum flavors mingle with toasty and mineral notes, supported by light tannins and balsamic acidity.” Cellar techniques include chilling the grapes before fermentation; fermenting in stainless steel and oak vats; and aging in a combination of new and used American and French oak. Each practice lends the finished wine subtle, multi-dimensional flavors and aromatics that allow for full expression of the region’s terroir, without any one component dominating this wine’s profile. 

That’s what we mean by balancing tradition with respectful use of modern methodology. It’s a best-case scenario that only gets better when you consider the price.