2014 Chateau Lilian Ladouys Saint-Estephe 750 ml

Our last trip to Bordeaux took us past First Growth Lafite-Rothschild in Pauillac and north across the stream known as the Jalle du Breuil, to the hill that some of the most famous properties in St. Estèphe call home. There, a stone’s throw from Lafite and situated between Super Second Growth Cos d’Estournel and Grand Cru Classé properties Cos Labory and Lafon-Rochet, it was tempting to think we had found Bordeaux nirvana. 

Fortunately, we kept going over the hill and found something even better: Adjacent to a vineyard that supplies fruit to First Growth Lafite-Rothschild, Château Lilian Ladouys is an insider Bordeaux that more than delivers on the promise of its Grand Cru neighbors, and does it for a fraction of what those collector-worthy Clarets command. To wit: The 93 points that James Suckling gave the “best ever” 2014 Ladouys equaled his score for Grand Cru neighbor Lafon-Rochet, which commands $50. 

Now with a few years in bottle, the 2014 presents a vibrant purple hue, along with classic Bordeaux aromas of cedar, black currant, red plum, graphite, smoke, violets, and charred oak. Firm tannins give a taut, energetic frame, which carries youthful red cherry and red currant flavors, evolving to cigar box and violets on the sustained finish. Ready to drink now but prepared for another decade-plus in the cellar, this is an age-worthy, overperforming Bordeaux that we’re offering for just $28 per bottle, about half the price of its Grand Cru competition. Then again, if it’s half the price, is it much of a competition?

While it’s true that St. Estèphe has no First Growth châteaux, the northern Médoc appellation is indeed home to First Growth vineyards. That’s because, at the time of the 1855 Classification, Château Lafite-Rothschild had some vines in St. Estèphe, and was granted a special allowance to use grapes grown at that site for Lafite. 

Those vineyard plots are located at the top and on the northwest side of the hill that Cos d’Estournel and Lafon Rochet call home, where they sit next to the vines of Château Lilian Ladouys. Classified as Cru Bourgeois in 1855, the overachieving property eventually underwent a name change (from Ladouys to Lilian Ladouys) and was purchased a decade ago by Jacky and Françoise Lorenzetti, who also own and co-own Grand Cru properties Château Pedesclaux and Château d’Issan, respectively. 

Under the new ownership, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate has noticed a “rapid improvement in recent years,” and the 2014 is a delicious taste of where it’s going. An under-the-radar Bordeaux to compete with the Grands Crus in its precious St. Estèphe neighborhood—that’s what we’re all about, and that’s why we came back with all we could.