2013 Michel Rolland Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 750 ml

Most Impressive New Napa Cabernet I’ve Tried in a Long Time

Opening a bottle of Michel Rolland’s own Napa Cabernet Sauvignon comes with a certain level of anticipation. After all, this is the man who steered to greatness Bordeaux châteaux such as Angélus, Ausone, Pavie, and Pontet-Canet, as well as iconic Napa estates such as Bond, Bryant Family, Harlan, and Staglin. And despite already high expectations, this wine, the most impressive new Napa Cabernet I’ve tried in a long time, exceeded all of them. I expected the immense concentration, complex layers, svelte and fine French oak, and powerful finish. What blew me away was the sheer beauty: Such ethereal perfume and impressive structure is uncommon in what is essentially a cult Napa Cabernet. Most of this 2013 vintage was already allocated to Michel’s own wine club; the few remaining bottles are now available to Wine Access clients at a very special $129/bottle price.

After a long day of tasting at Wine Access, I rarely want more wine when I get home. But the unfinished bottle of Rolland’s Napa Cabernet came home with me after our tasting, and that evening, was more and more compelling with every sip. It has a beautiful nose of wild dark fruits, blueberry, violets, licorice, espresso, and wild thyme, with sophisticated French oak, dark chocolate, and spice. It’s wonderfully structured and svelte, with incredible density, fresh acidity, and impressively textured tannins, before a long, lingering finish. It can be enjoyed now after an hour of decanting time, or ideally kept until at least 2020 and enjoyed any time through to 2035.  Perfect for putting a few bottles away to savor at different stages, this is serious, collector’s Cabernet.

I first met Michel Rolland over breakfast at the Park Hyatt in Mendoza, Argentina, back in 2004.  For such an icon of the wine world, I was struck by what amiable and entertaining company he proved to be. I don’t necessarily agree with all of his philosophies on paper, particularly around later harvesting and extravagant new French oak. But I have always been extremely impressed by the wines he touches, and have collected and imported several of them over the years.  Whether Pontet-Canet, Harlan, or Ornellaia, Rolland’s influence can always be appreciated in the perfect balance of generosity and complexity, both aromatic and textural. Three decades of experience with Napa terroir have Rolland convinced that Napa is second only to France as a source of great wines. Together with winemaker Jean Hoefliger of Alpha Omega, he’s crafted a fine addition to the Napa Hall of Fame with this bottle.

It can’t be a surprise that a wine bearing Rolland’s own name draws all of its Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa’s greatest vineyards: 30% from Beckstoffer To Kalon, 30% from Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper, 30% from Beckstoffer Dr. Crane, and 10% from Stagecoach. The wine was fermented in open-top barrels with native yeast. After fermentation, the tops were placed back on the barrels and the juice and skins were kept in contact in barrel for up to 90 more days. Maturation over 22 months took place entirely in French oak barriques, of which 80% was new. Harder to quantify is the sheer quality and sophistication of fruit flavors, oak expression, and tannin texture. A true micro-cuvée, only 250 cases were made of the exceptional 2013 vintage, almost exclusively for release by allocation to subscribers.

As stingy as I can be when judging wine, I gave this one of my highest scores of the year, 97 points. Robert M. Parker Jr. was perhaps as impressed, awarding it 95+ points but suggesting a likely upgrade in the future. In notes at least as effusive as mine (see below), Parker credits “Rolland’s enormous experience and obvious knowledge of great viticulture and winemaking” for this “exceptional,” “plush, full-bodied wine.”

Cheers,
Matt Deller MW
Master of Wine