2013 Joseph Jewell Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 750 ml

Former Gary Farrell Cellarmaster​ ​and the Bumper Crop of 2013

We’ll make this very simple: a downright delicious Pinot Noir made by a former cellarmaster at Gary Farrell Winery with fruit from five exceptional Russian River sites — at the mind-boggling price of $19.99/bottle! This is a CASE BUY.

In 2015, we had one of our regular cases of heartburn as we opened an issue of Wine & Spirits Magazine. Sure enough, among their 12 “Wineries to Watch” was one we HAD been watching: Pinot Noir producer Joseph Jewell.

Winemaker Micah Joseph Wirth cut his teeth working with Pinot all-star Gary Farrell at his eponymous winery. As cellarmaster, Wirth negotiated big contracts and enjoyed prime pick of grapes from vineyards like Westside Farms, Rochioli, and Hallberg. Although Wirth and his partner, Adrian Jewell Manspeaker, have no financial backers, they’ve managed to secure fruit contracts from similar world-class sites for their 2,500-case production — no small feat. Here’s how.  

Over Ahi tuna crackers and Smoked Duck at Mustards Grill off Highway 29, Manspeaker let us in on their fruit coup and early success. “It was the economic downturn of 2008. A lot of big wineries let their contracts go,” Manspeaker said. With Wirth’s connections, they swooped in. “We got fruit from Hallberg, and Floodgate and Bucher, and we built our reputation on quality, and being able to pay our bills. We were the guys making wine in our garage and didn’t have the financial backers, but we got lucky.”

Five exceptional sites provided fruit for the 2013 Joseph Jewell, which Manspeaker poured into our Riedel Burgundy glasses. Bucher vineyard, situated on Westside Road, is a half-mile north of Rochioli, and provides the majority of Pinot fruit. Floodgate, Appian Way, and Nurmi make up the rest, along with some highly coveted grapes from the dry-farmed Hallberg Vineyard, which is owned by Emeritus Winery and was planted by Bryce Jones of Sonoma Cutrer fame.   

“The 2013 growing season was near-perfect in the Russian River Valley,” said Manspeaker as he took in a forkful of smoked duck and crispy new potatoes. In September the fog began to roll in, and as a result, Adrian said, “We got some great hang-time. It seemed like everything was going to come all at once because of the warm summer. But on the coastal side of Sonoma County, blankets of fog rolled in day after day and that allowed us to monitor sugars and acids and pick when we wanted.”

That's when Manspeaker confirmed something we had suspected: He was a carpenter before he was a winemaker, and prefers to be around the production room rather than beating the pavement selling the wine. The bumper crop of 2013 meant they had to make room for incoming vintages. After one taste, we said we’d be happy to help.

Taking cues from Gary Farrell on balance and elegance, Wirth and Manspeaker then add their own mark by bottling the 2013 Joseph Jewell unfined and unfiltered. The result is a remarkably elegant style of Sonoma Coast Pinot with hallmark Russian River body and texture. Vibrant garnet color to the rim. Incredibly expressive and fragrant nose of strawberries, cranberries, and crushed rose petals. Weighty and fleshy, a spectrum of juicy red fruits rushes the palate, with a touch of candied concentration. After a few seconds, earthy notes emerge, and hints of morels and orange peel adds to the allure. This will lift any smoked duck or salmon dish, whether you carry a bottle into Mustards or not.

From the steady hand of a Gary Farrell protégé. Only $19.99/bottle for this exceptional Russian River Valley Pinot. A CASE-BUY.