2013 Giacomo Borgogno No Name 750 ml

Purposefully Declassified By Top Barolo Estate

If we simply told you that critic Antonio Galloni of Vinous called Borgogno & Figli’s No Name “one of the best values in the world of wine,” and left it at that, who could blame us? That endorsement alone would probably be enough to dry up our tiny allocation in a matter of hours. But it wouldn’t be telling the whole story. Not even half of it. Read on to understand why one of the greatest Barolo producers of all time declassified some of their best estate fruit from three of Barolo’s top Crus, to make this vibrant and spicy Nebbiolo, but not before locking in a case. At $29.99—the best price in the nation—56 cases won’t last long.  

Giacomo Borgogno & Figli has a proud history of bottling exceptional Barolo, with a legacy tracing back to 1761. In 1871, it was Borgogno Barolo that was flowing at the official dinner celebrating the Italian Risorgimento (Unification). When the last Russian czar, Nicholas II Romanov, came to the Castle of Racconigi in 1886, he drank Borgogno Barolo. The winery’s exquisitely preserved library is the kind serious collectors discuss with awe.

In 2005, Borgogno added a modern legend—“No Name.” This annual production is comprised of purposefully declassified grapes from estate vineyards within three famous Cru Barolo DOCGs: Cannubi, Fossati, and Liste. Here’s why.

In 2005, Borgogno was denied DOCG status for a cask of their Barolo—there was nothing wrong with the wine at all, but it was considered “stylistically irregular” for Barolo. Really? For a 250-year-old estate? The owners had a good laugh, but decided to get even. They didn’t go as far as Mouton-Rothschild in France, which lobbied and sued for decades until the winery was elevated from a Second Growth to a First Growth. Instead, every year, in quiet, hushed-laughter protest, they went rogue—purposefully declassifying some of their best estate fruit from three Cru Barolo DOCGs to make “No Name”—a stunningly complex would-be Barolo.

These days, as Galloni’s resounding endorsement proves, “No Name” has quite a reputation—our very own Master Sommelier, Sur Lucero, poured it by the glass at Napa’s preeminent Italian bistro, Oenotri.

The 2013 vintage is yet another overachiever, showing classic Barolo notes of red cherry, tar and earth, accented by rose petal and truffle. This would easily carry a $50 price tag were it not for the red tape of Italian wine law. While it remains unclassified, “No Name” carries a much more significant label: “one of the best values in the world of wine,” according to Vinous. Don’t hesitate on this one.