2013 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 750 ml

Finding Exceptional Value in a Classic Brunello

Not many, if any, 2013 Brunellos hold a candle to this one as far as the price-to-quality ratio is concerned. The 2013 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino boasts a perfect storm: classically proportioned, filigreed, and complex with an extra portion of panache. The weather in Tuscany has become more capricious yearly and, going forward, a vintage that so closely mirrors the classics of the ‘80s and 90s may be few and far between.

One thing we know for sure is that the critics agree on the quality of the 2013s. Jancis Robinson MW noted it was “a promising vintage on the whole,” but singled out the wines of Montalcino as on the “exceptional” track. James Suckling goes one further: “The top 2013s are reminiscent of outstanding 2006s, which can also possess similarly clear, vivid fruit coupled with depth.” Suckling found “plenty of black cherry and berry character ” and a “delicious finish,” in the 2013 Fanti, which he awarded 93 points. Focused and energetic on the palate, with subtle cedar spice to complement brilliant red fruit and fresh herbal flavors, propped up by a classically Italian grip to its tannins—offered at $37.99 per bottle on cases—16% off and the best price in the nation. Shipping included on 4.

A lot has changed in the three years since we last offered a Fanti Brunello. For anyone who talks to grape growers in Tuscany often, as we do, the last few vintages have cemented the growing unpredictability of the climate. 2011 and 2012 were blazingly warm, generating great, but massively proportioned wines: Brunellos that very much turned towards California for inspiration. 2014 brought huge rains, and a small quantity of complex, but rather ethereal Brunellos. For the younger vintages, it’s simply too early to tell. As a result, 2013 may prove to be the last classic “Goldilocks” vintage for some time.

Considering that the critical praise for the 2010 vintage heralded in madness for Brunello lovers the world around, with huge scores for the 2009s and 2010s, not to mention a growing demand from foreign markets, it’s no wonder that prices have pushed sky-high for the best wines. The result of all eyes and all heads turned toward Brunello has aggressively tent-poled the rest of appellation. But, Montalcino is still the same size it’s always been—demand is simply higher, and reaching a critical peak.

All these forces have pressed us to rely on our tried-and-true sources of reasonably priced, high-quality Brunello. The Fanti Family has deep roots in Montalcino, having owned their property since the early 1800s. Filippo Fanti’s 123 acres of vineyards are meticulously farmed the hard way, with manual weed removal and natural fertilizers. As a result, both the old vines and the new plantings of low-yielding modern clones produce impeccably balanced Brunello in all vintages, but the Fanti’s triumph even more so in a classic vintage like 2013.  

We’d suggest going deep if you can. This is a wine that’s great now, but will also reward with a decade or two of cellaring.