2013 Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley 750 ml

2013 Russian River Pinot Noir: Burgundy on Dutton Ranch

Dan Goldfield has been crafting Russian River Pinot Noir for almost 30 years. In every vintage since 2000, when we first began collecting Dan's ultra-juicy, wild-berry Pinot Noirs, his small production off prized Dutton Ranch has ranked among Sonoma's three or four most stunning bargains.

Like all serious Pinot Noir makers, Goldfield is a bit obsessed with Burgundy's Côte de Nuits, particularly in ripe vintages like 2002, 2005, 2009, and 2010. Dan is the first to admit that while Russian River can go toe to toe with Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin when it comes to ripeness, rarely does his Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir possess the balance and mineral length of the best from the Côte de Nuits.

In 2013, Russian River's second consecutive drought year, Dutton Ranch gave birth to a sizable crop of super-ripe, small-berry Pinot Noir. The combination of thick skins, naturally high acidity, and plenty of natural sugar set the stage for Goldfield's most sweetly perfumed Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir — EVER.

The 2013 growing season burst out of the gate like a racehorse. Like 2012, a warm, arid spring made for a sizable fruit set. But even though both vintages featured high yields, the size and shape of the crop couldn't have been more disparate.

Dutton Ranch

In 2012, the Pinot Noir berries were big and fairly thin-skinned, making for juicy wines of soft tannin structure. "2013 was the opposite," Dan told us, as we washed down bacon and eggs with scalding black coffee at the cafe in Graton. "Yields were high because the bunches were big. But the berries were very small, making for high skin-to-juice ratios. Acids and tannin content were far higher in 2013, making for more richly structured Pinot Noir."

While the summer was again quite warm and exceedingly dry, there were no significant heat spikes. A healthy splash of rain in June rejuvenated the deep-rooted Pinot Noir vines at Emerald Ridge, Freestone Hill, and Morelli Lane vineyards, fending off hydric stress.

Typically, when the call to harvest comes early at Dutton Ranch, it's because sugars are very high and acids are beginning tumble. Nothing could have been further from the truth in 2013. Harvest began in late August. Sugars, indeed, were high (though not quite so high as 2012), but due to tiny berry size and thick skins, acids remained strikingly firm. Goldfield was delivered the most remarkably Burgundian "material" in memory.

The 2013 Dutton-Goldfield Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir is a showstopper. Barrel-fermented, then aged for 10 months in 40% new French cooperage, the color is vivid ruby. Gorgeous aromatically, featuring a mix of black cherry, black raspberry, strawberry, and sweet spice. Rich, juicy, and high-toned on entry, filled with black cherry and raspberry preserves, buttressed by pomegranate and cranberry, finishing with Burgundian tension and persistence. Drink now for its youthful vibrancy, or far better — but as much as any Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir to date — lay this brilliant new release from Dan Goldfield down until the early 2020s.

$42 on release. Just $30 today on WineAccess. Shipping included on 4.