2012 Henry's Drive Shiraz-Cabernet Padthaway 750 ml

An Affinity in Down Under

For many years, WineAccess steered clear of Down Under. The trend towards ultra-concentration had gone too far, with countless Shiraz vineyards picked after grapes had raisined and acids had plummeted. Winemakers felt compelled to “correct” in the cellar, dosing their wines with tartaric and sulfuric acid to support a Port-like flavor profile. Of course wine lovers turned on this overblown style, and the global market for Australian wines suffered as a result.

But some exceptional estates kept their eyes on the prize. We’ve continued to offer the exceptional Shiraz crafted by John Duval, for instance. And now, if you read Decanter Magazine as closely as we do, you know that Britain’s highbrow answer to Wine Spectator is bullish on Australia again — especially the endemic Cabernet-Shiraz blend.

“The great Australian red blend is alive, kicking and boomeranging back,” Decanter proclaimed in its June 2016 issue. The roundup showcased five of what they considered to be the best examples of Cabernet-Shiraz blends in Australia, including iconic labels like Penfolds, Rockford, and Yalumba. The selections from the 2011, 2012, and 2013 vintages boast an average score of 92+ points, and an average price of $95.

But Decanter’s roundup missed a gem, and WineAccess members once again reap the reward. Two weeks ago, the 93-point 2012 Henry’s Drive Shiraz-Cabernet sleeper from proprietor Kim Longbottom landed on the tasting table at WineAccess HQ.

Kim and her late husband Mark planted the first vines of Henry’s Drive in 1992 on the family’s expansive acreage in Padthaway. On South Australia’s Limestone Coast just north of Coonawarra, Padthaway is nestled in a scenic valley benefitting from a Mediterranean climate. Its soil was under the sea just a few million years ago. The combination of climate, sandy loam soil, and ancient subterranean water tables has lured vineyard growers here since the 1940s. Kim, a native of Marlborough, New Zealand, and Mark patiently nurtured their land to establish what we believe is Padthaway’s finest estate. You can find excellent, estate-grown Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Verdelho around their 500 acres, but Henry’s Drive Vignerons is built on the heavy shoulders of Shiraz and Cabernet.

The 2012 vintage was met with praise across South Australia, from Barossa down to Coonawarra. Padthaway experienced one of its earliest and driest growing seasons on record. Warm temperatures in early spring brought a quick bud break. Summer’s warm days and cool nights enabled Cabernet grapes to ripen evenly and kept acid levels in check. The call to harvest came a few weeks earlier than previous vintages, but sugar levels were perfect and, with yields down slightly, flavor concentration was impeccable.

The 2012 Henry’s Drive Shiraz-Cabernet has a black and blue saturated hue. Gobs of brambly blackcurrant and blackberry fruit that is layered throughout the nose to finish. Dried thyme and tarragon season the immense fruit component. Tertiary notes of cracked black pepper, licorice, figs, bittersweet chocolate and eucalyptus add layers of complexity. The Shiraz showcases candied currant and pepper spice notes. Cabernet offers structure and blackberry fruit accented by polish and fine-grained tannins on the finish. A judicious utilization of French and American oak blends this wine together almost effortlessly. Enjoyable right now or keep for another 2 to 3 years.

Wine Enthusiast rated it 93 points and bestowed an “Editors’ Choice” honor upon it, citing this as “a prime example of how blending Cabernet and Shiraz can benefit both.” Released at $40, but for WineAccess members, just $19.99. Only 80 cases left in the country of this classic blend of Shiraz and Cabernet — with nods to both the Old and New Worlds — and they’re all ours!