2011 Tenuta di Ghizzano Veneroso Rosso Toscana 750 ml

Antonio Galloni’s 92pt “Veneroso” … A Stone’s Throw from the Tuscan Coast

Ghizzano is a small hillside village perched 200 meters above sea level, equidistant from Livorno and Pisa, a stone’s throw from the Tuscan coast. Here, in the shadow of the magnificent stone tower built by Venerosi Pesciolini at the tail end of the 14th century, Tenuta di Ghizzano crafts some of the richest and most finely structured Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blends of the region.

Unlike the more sun-baked properties on the coast, where the hot summers often cause blistering and desiccation, Ghizzano’s microclimate is unusually mild, cooled by sea breezes — a feature that would pay huge dividends during the 2011 growing season. Here’s why.

As Antonio Galloni, the world’s most respected Tuscan wine critic, explained in an exhaustive 2011 vintage report, an exceedingly dry winter got vines off to a fast start, nearly a month before 2010. Both spring and summer temperatures were warmer than the norm. While the torrid conditions jump-started maturity, a bonus for late-maturing Sangiovese and Cabernet, the first signs of hydric stress began to appear in August. Leaves were dry. Vines lost a bit of their green luster. But, as we often say, vintages are generally made or broken in the last weeks before harvest. Such was the case at Ghizzano in 2011.

A bit of September rain was followed by a shift in the weather. While skies remained blue, daytime highs fell 10-15 degrees. The rejuvenated vines soaked up the rain, pumping nutrients into bunches. Yields were small at harvest, roughly 30% less than the norm. Concentration was correspondingly high. Picking was conducted under optimal conditions: Cool mornings, turquoise skies, and refreshing and cleansing maritime breezes. Despite the concerns of August, 2011 turned out to be a fantastic vintage at Tenuta di Ghizzano, making for one of the most extraordinary Super Tuscan bargains of the year.

The 2011 “Veneroso” is comprised of 65% floral, wild-berry Sangiovese and 35% powerfully structured Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep, dark ruby to the edge. Explosive aromas of dark plum, cherry, and licorice, touched with Left Bank graphite. Rich, dense, and plush on the attack, packed with black- and red-fruit preserves, violets, coffee, and sweet spice, finishing with classic Tuscan backbone. “Veneroso” always ages beautifully, and this 2011 will be no exception. Drink now for its primary-fruit hedonism or lay down until the early 2020s; there’s ample merit in each approach.

92 points from Galloni. $50 on release and worth every nickel. Just $20 this morning — HALF OFF — on this WineAccess Direct Import, right from the cool, dank cellars on the Tuscan coast.