2010 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 750 ml

Criomaceration and Andrea Cortonesi’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

In February 2014, the greatest names of Montalcino arrived in New York for the unveiling of the 2010 Brunelli, the highest-rated vintage in history. We arrived at Gotham Hall two hours before the doors opened, sipping double cappuccinos to take the bite out of the light snow and sleet. Five hours later, we were dancing a jig on Broadway, having carved out respectable allocations from a dozen estates, including Altesino, Poggio Antico, Caparzo, Fanti, and Costanti.

Still, the buoyancy of our moods was tempered by our inability to reel in what we believed to be the most extraordinary 2010 Riserva. Andrea Cortonesi, one of the most celebrated winemakers of the appellation, pulled out all the stops with his textbook execution of criomaceration, turning out a 2010 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva that shocked the crowd in NYC. We spent nearly 45 minutes at the Uccelliera table at Gotham Hall, all but begging the importer for a small allocation. Unfortunately, our words fell on deaf ears.

What was so enthralling about a 2010 Riserva that would go on to earn DOUBLE 98-point reviews from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and James Suckling? Cortonesi, both an agronomist and an enologist, is well-known for pushing the envelope on concentration and mineral intensity, employing signature protocols in the vineyard and cellar. Over the last decade, Andrea has turned out some spectacular wines, but none as jaw-dropping as the Riserva we sipped and swirled at 1356 Broadway. Here’s why.

Yields were very small at Uccelliera in 2010. Additionally, berry size was tiny, with high skin-to-juice ratio. Andrea went for the gusto, treating the finest Sangiovese off this single hectare first planted in 1975 to 4-5 days of cold maceration at 52-55 degrees. Half of the fermentation would take place at low temperatures. As a result, Cortonesi contended, color and wild-berry purity was enhanced. Tannins were more supple, even as oxidation was kept to a minimum, allowing for far lower additions of sulfur dioxide.

Suffice it to say that no one at Gotham Hall was questioning Cortonesi’s protocol on that February afternoon at Gotham Hall.

So what gives? How is it that 60 bottles of The Wine Advocate’s #3 Brunello of 2010, and the only 98-pointer to be offered for less than $100/bottle, fell into the lap of WineAccess? Don’t ask. We’re not telling … at least, per the importer, not until the week after next!

98 points from Parker. 98 more from Suckling. $145 on release. $99 this morning — the BEST PRICE in America. Five cases are up for grabs.