1998 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva 750 ml

A Rare 1998 Gran Reserva Released from Rioja Cellar

When Spain’s economy collapsed in 2008 and 2009, most bodegas were obliged to tighten their belts in the vineyards and the cellars. Invariably, quality was negatively impacted by those belt-tightening measures. But in the last few years, a handful of Spanish wineries have followed the lead of Vega Sicilia, deciding not to cut corners in the vineyards but rather releasing fully mature bottles from their cold, cobwebbed cellars in order to help with the credit crunch.

We don’t offer much Rioja on WineAccess — too many corners being cut. But when we find one of high quality with a great value proposition, we cut the deal on the spot.  

If you’ve never been, Rioja is a must-visit. The Cantabrian Mountains to the north play a key role in moderating daytime highs, as do the cooling breezes off the Ebro River. Both help to stretch out the growing season, allowing late-maturing Tempranillo to ripen slowly and incrementally.

There are three sub-regions of Rioja: Rioja Alta, on the western edge of the appellation, with vineyards planted at high elevation; Rioja Baja, far and away the hottest zone, making for weighty, more plodding, deeply colored, high-alcohol reds; and finally, there’s Rioja Alavesa, which, like Rioja Alta, enjoys a more moderate climate, but also benefits from poorer, more rugged soils.

Bodegas Riojanas sits right in the heart of Rioja Alta and was founded in 1890 during the glory years of the region. In the cool growing cycle of the 1998 vintage, the limestone, Rioja Alta soils of Bodegas Riojanas gave birth to this gorgeous Gran Reserva, an exquisite 100% Tempranillo bottling that marries the floral elegance of Burgundy with the fine structure of Bordeaux’s Left Bank.

We weren't the only ones impressed by the 1998 Bodegas Riojanas “Monte Real” Gran Reserva. 94 points and an Editors' Choice selection from Wine Enthusiast. In a 93-point review, Antonio Galloni’s Vinous called the Gran Reserva “supple, lush and deep, with sweet red fruit flavors framed by gentle, harmonious tannins.”

Bright ruby color. Fragrant white floral, new-wood cedar, and leather spice on the nose. Subtle dried fruits of cherry and plum come to the forefront with proper aeration. Impeccably juicy and plush fruit, underscored by savory herbs tinged with sweet vanilla notes. Soft tannin is framed by lively acidity. It’s remarkable that a nearly 20-year-old wine can be this fresh and mouthwatering. This is a textbook example of “old school” Rioja, where the bodega handled all the cellaring work for you. Showcase with a slow roasted fowl or braised meat dish.

Having fallen back in love with Rioja, we’re very excited to offer our members one of the top-rated 1998 Rioja Gran Reservas, one that is fully mature and drinking absolutely perfectly right now.

94 points and an Editors' Choice selection from Wine Enthusiast. $75 on release. $45.99 ONLY on WineAccess. A total of 360 bottles are up for grabs, all drawn DIRECTLY from Bodegas Riojanas’ frigid cellars in Rioja Alta. Absolutely, positively NOT to be missed by all wine enthusiasts.