Location, Location, Location — WineAccess Exclusive. Direct from Louis Latour Cellars
All roads lead to Burgundy. We’ve all heard that phrase before. It’s uttered by wine lovers from all corners of the world. It’s because Burgundy is the wine that knocks you out with subtlety and charm rather than flash and brute force. They are wines that are immediately accessible but demand your attention for you to extract the greatest pleasure.
Whenever we find a great Burgundy with a great price for WineAccess, we go long. We found something gorgeously expressive in the 2014 Louis Latour Chassagne-Montrachet “Cailleret.” We tried to cut the sharpest deal possible but unfortunately, we had our back against the wall. After hard-nosed negotiations, we had the importer ready to sign. But when Steve Tanzer released his vintage report on 2014 White Burgundy, our luck turned. Tanzer was bullish, calling it “clearly a vintage to buy” and name-checking Chassagne-Montrachet as the lone white village to avoid significant hail. We love Steve and consider him a close friend, but he buried us here. Our hand was weakened and the importer cut our allocation in half. 20 cases, that’s it.
For White Burgundy, there are just eight vineyards bearing the Grand Cru designation, and there are about 50 Premier Cru parcels. Of those 50, just two merit consideration as Grand Crus: “La Romanée” and our favorite, “Cailleret.”
“Cailleret” is perched just south of the village and appropriately takes its name from the Latin “calculu,” which means “stony soils.” Enjoying perfect southern exposure, this low slope is packed with chunks of white limestone. That goes a long way toward explaining the chiseled structure of the vineyard’s Chardonnays, wines that are notorious for their aging capacity, often outdistancing Grand Crus from Bâtard-Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet in the same cellar.
Burgundy’s 2014 growing season was successful depending on your — as NYC commercial real estate brokers say — “location, location, location.” The flowering was early, and the months of May and June were optimally warm and dry. That idyllic warm period was broken on June 28th when a violent hail storm pummeled vines in Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, and Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Left unscathed, Chassagne-Montrachet is THE village for White Burg in 2014. Steve Tanzer called it “clearly a vintage to buy” and name-checking Chassagne-Montrachet as the lone white village fortunate enough to avoid significant hail.
The 2014 Louis Latour Chassagne Montrachet Cailleret Premier Cru is brilliant medium-yellow. The nose features a complex mix of lemon, white peach, honey, and a whiff of quince, tinged with a sea-air minerality. Rich, stony, and fleshy on the attack, filled with an exotic array of ripe citrus, pear, and jasmine, finishing dry with chalky stoniness. Drink now or let it sleep for another 10 years.
This is a classic White Burgundy vintage from the best performing village in 2014. 93 points from Wine Enthusiast. Drink it now or cellar it for 10 years. Whichever you decide, act fast. Originally $105 on release. Only $75/bottl on this WineAccess Exclusive — our last 20 cases are up for grabs .. shipping inc on 3.